15 Jul 2010
Tasting articles

Beaujolais 2009 – buy, buy!

Tasting articles
Image

I can't tell you how enthusiastic I am about these wines – the perfect antidote to Bordeaux 2009 madness.  See some background here and do think seriously about getting in the lighter of these wines for immediate enjoyment.

The picture gives some idea of the gentle hills of the best Beaujolais villages, the crus. It's of some of the vineyards around the village of Fleurie that the Henriot family (owners of Bouchard Père et Fils) have been working on in their conversion of the Ch Poncié into Villa Ponciago, a slightly unfortunate name for English-speakers perhaps.

RED

Alliance des Vignerons du Beaujolais, Sélection de la Hante 2009 Chénas

Very mineral, cool wet granite. A wonderful juxtaposition of power and elegance. Dense sinewy tannins, finely brushed with lavender, violets and deliciously sappy nectarine in the middle. On the finish, sun-warmed scented thyme. A glorious mouthful of flavours. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2016
£9.99 Winescape
17

Alliance des Vignerons du Beaujolais, Puits Béni 2009 Morgon

Mineral. A baritone of a wine. Deep and booming and solid with tingling wet-slate minerality. Richness, but all held in check and for now a monastic austerity that only piques the interest. One to hold on to. (TC)
Drink
2012
–
2016
£9.59 Alexander Hadleigh
17

Maison Albert Bichot 2009 St-Amour

Quite closed with just a soft hint of strawberry perfume. Lots of tension on the palate, beautiful play between tightly cut tannins, nervy angular acidity and pure sweet wild strawberries. Earthy, sweet beetroot undertones. Fine and layered with a finely woven complexity. (TC) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£10.99 Soho Wine Supply
17

Dom de la Boisseliere 2009 Chiroubles

Bright crimson. Very light nose. Pleasant, light, easy palate but I don't feel as though this selection of Depagneux Beaujolais has been selected with as much fastidiousness as most Wine Society ranges are. Light and undemanding.   (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Dom de la Bonne Tonne, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Morgon

Dark crimson. Full, open and floral (Pinot Noir-like?) on the nose. Lightly chewy. Lots of grunt and personality. Still a little youthful on the palate. On schist and manganese. Certified organic since 2002. Horse in prospect. Lots to get your teeth into here. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2017
17

Patrick Bouland 2009 Chiroubles

Softer and more floral on the nose than the other Chiroubles, that peony perfume appearing again. Wonderful arching acidity, pure fruit and pure long, lightly drawn lines. Clementine, orange zest and bright cherry gently bound up with a silk scarf of tannin. (TC)
Drink
2010
–
2013
€7 n/a UK
16.5 +

Maison Collin-Bourisset, Douce Folie 2009 St-Amour

Cherry cough-mixture nose. Sweet, squashed, slightly bruised cherry on the mid palate and then damp leaves on the finish. Interesting in a damp-mossy-stones sort of way. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
€8.40 n/a UK
15.5

Maison Collin-Bourisset, Cuvée des Hospices 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Smells like straight strawberry jam but on the palate there seems to be some rather raw oak bitterness which gives it a certain harshness and for the moment is really sitting on the sweet fruit underneath. To give it the benefit of the doubt, it might just need some time to integrate. (TC) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2015
€8.50
15.5 ++

Bernard Broyer 2009 Juliénas

Fresh herb-garden aromas of mint and sorrel. Earthy with rich sun-drenched sweet fruit. Honest and tangy, silky tannin and a wine that makes you want to linger and think. Hard to spit. (TC)
Drink
2010
–
2015
£9.95 Vine Trail
17

Dom Jean-Marc Burgaud, Château de Thulon 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Dark crimson – vibrant colour.  Polished, dense, mineral-scented fruit and quite a bit of tannin.  Despite the relatively lowly appellation, I would wait awhile before tackling this.  Really quite as serious as many a cru Beaujolais.  Still very firm but very impressive.  (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2014
17

Dom Calot, Cuvée Jeanne 2009 Morgon

Dark crimson. Lacy, racy, polished. Smooth and juicy. Hint of rhubarb. Lip smacking though only just refreshing enough. (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£12.50 Stone, Vine & Sun
16.5

Dom de la Chapelle des Bois 2009 Chiroubles

From Coudert Appert of Fleurie.  Minerals on the nose and real raciness.  Super-juicy start and already bumptious and very appealing.  Quite sweet on the front palate and then some fine tannin on the finish.  SO drinkable.  (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£10.50 Stone, Vine & Sun
17

Dom de la Chapelle des Bois, Cuvée Bel Air 2009 Fleurie

Relatively pale crimson. Rather dull nose. Nothing desperately wrong with this but it doesn't sing as sweetly nor as eloquently as their Chiroubles. Chewy finish. Is this very mild TCA? (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£10.95 Stone, Vine & Sun
15.5 ?

Gérard Charvet, La Réserve d'Amélie 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Dark purplish crimson. Very meaty nose with lovely lift. Extremely substantial wine with really quite round tannins, almost burgundian. Perfumed and round with just a skein of minerality on the finish. Vineyard soil is some manganese in pink granite apparently. (JR)

13%
Drink
2010
–
2016
Majestic
17

Ch du Châtelard, Les Vieux Granits 2009 Fleurie

Fruits of the forest, crushed raspberries. Beautiful lines and dancing intensity weaving in and out of deliciously sweet strawberries and velvety touch-me tannins. This is an embracing mouthful of wine. Just great. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£9.95 Paul Adams Fine Wines
17

Ch du Châtelard, Les Roches 2009 Morgon

Very herbal – oreganum and thyme. Tight-weave tannin and delicious cherry and strawberry fruit. Fleshy and lovely and lightly laced with spice. Roses and chrysanthemums on a finish as meandering and floral as a path in a cottage garden. (TC)

13%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£9.25 Paul Adams Fine Wines
16.5

Alain Chatoux, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Beaujolais

It takes time to reach Alain Chatoux’s hideaway in Ste-Paule, some 700 m above sea-level, near the Bois d’Oingt – this is where the best ‘straight’ Beaujolais comes from, on steep granitic and schistous slopes, completely different from the vineyards down in the plain of the Saône.
Bright crimson. Fresh, full of fruit. Lots of acidity. Smooth and sleek and very versatile. Not very long but super easy. Could (should?) be drunk without food. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£9.95 per bottle, or £8.95 by the case BBR
16

Dom Chignard, Les Moriers 2009 Fleurie

Cédric Chignard continues his father’s good work with their 8.5 ha of Fleurie in and around Les Moriers on the Moulin à Vent side of the appellation. The wine is made in large wooden foudres, but no barrels for the regular cuvée.
Mineral nose. Quite soft and scented. Very flattering. Complete and quite forward even if there is a little tannin there. (JR)

13%
Drink
2011
–
2015
£14.95 per bottle, or £13.45 by case BBR
17

Clos de Haute Combe 2009 Juliénas

Sweet cherry jam on the nose. Sweet fruit with pretty sharp acid. Very get-up-and-go, lots of energy if not the most graceful. (TC)
Drink
2010
–
2013
€5.75 n/a UK
16

Dom de la Combe au Loup 2009 Chiroubles

To begin with, the nose was all liquorice and charcoal with the faintest smudge of bramble berries. But when I came back to the wine a bit later, it smelt just like I'd opened a packet of blackcurrant pastilles. Chewy and elements of wild fennel, garrigue, sun-baked raspberries and wet hot black slate. Firm minerality. Very alive and persistent. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2014
€5 n/a UK
16.5

Dom du Cret Gonin, Les Charmes 2009 Morgon

Unusually light and round and forward and charming for a Morgon.  Light tannins on the finish.  Good value – very juicy.  Lovely early-drinking super-fruity Morgon. Quite intense on the finish.   GV (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£9.95 Stone, Vine & Sun
16.5

Dom Demiane 2009 Brouilly

Mid ruby/crimson.  Another rather light nose from Depagneux negociant.  A bit of texture and chew and nothing to object to but just a slight lack of individuality – especially in comparison to the Coteaux du Lyonnais from The Wine Society.  Fine tannins on the finish. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Louis-Claude Desvignes, La Voûte St-Vincent 2009 Morgon

The domaine is now run by Louis-Claude’s daughter Claude-Emmanuelle and son Louis-Benoît. They offer a range of different Morgon bottlings, from the all-purpose La Voûte St-Vincent, via a 2-ha plot on the granitic Côte du Py, to their holding of Javernières which usually makes the fullest wine of the appellation.
Substantial meaty nose with quite marked tannins on the palate. Very firm. Wait quite a while for this to soften! (JR) 13%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£12.50 Berry Bros & Rudd
16.5 +

Louis-Claude Desvignes, Côte du Py 2009 Morgon

Cask sample. Deep crimson. Really rich and gorgeous. Very dark and dense but utterly seductive. Racy and thick – this has flesh but also the racy acidity of Beaujolais. Just lovely. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2018
£108 ib BBR
17.5

Georges Duboeuf Gamay 2009 Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche

Bright mid crimson. Light, sweetish nose with a rather more industrial cast than the Marks & Spencer version from the Cave St-Desirat. Astringent finish too. The best thing about this wine is the pretty flowery label. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2010
The Wine Society
14.5

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Beaujolais

Smells of parma violets and grape-flavoured soda. Dominant acidity – a bit jagged – and dusty violet notes. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£5.99 Berkmann Wine Cellars
15

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Bubblegum aromas here. A noticeable step up in tannin density, compared to the straight Beaujolais. Smooth though, and correct, but lacks excitement. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£9.79 Berkmann Wine Cellars
15

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Brouilly

Deep crimson.  Fresh and straightforward on the nose. Attractively savoury undertow.  Slightly inky finish. Crackling fruit. Pretty tough finish still. Slightly drying. (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2013
16.5

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Chiroubles

Quite dark crimson. Light nose that's just a little indistinct. Acidity rather more dominant than the tannin. Fades a little fast. More like a typical vintage Duboeuf than some that are more obviously marked by 2009's ripeness. Good, positive finish though. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
16

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Fleurie

Light, bright crimson. Very appetising acidity and fresh, perhaps slightly simple fruit. No one could object to this but it's not exactly thrilling. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
16

Georges Duboeuf, La Madone 2009 Fleurie

Mid crimson. Very polished nose – perhaps a little tame?  Taffeta texture – this wine positively crackles.  Fine tannins on the finish.  A lighter register than some though it should develop more complexity, even though it's far from full bodied. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
16.5

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Juliénas

Dark crimson. Polished nose. Very well balanced and rather sweeter than most. Raspberry fruit with very fine tannins. I should imagine this is rather good value as it tastes as though it could be a single vineyard wine. (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2014
16.5

Georges Duboeuf, Château des Capitans 2009 Juliénas

Dark crimson.  Embryonic nose.  Meaty scents and lots of very ripe fruit.  Then chewy tannins on the finish with some acidity noticeable.   A very substantial wine that's almost like a young red burgundy.  (Though that is not why I am giving it quite a high score!) (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2015
17

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Morgon

Notably dark crimson. Very appetising nose – really gouleyant and juicy fruit. Smooth and polished on the palate – really very different from most Beaujolais, so solid is this wine, without marked acidity. This may be 'only' the regular Duboeuf label but it is very ambitious. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2017
17

Jean-Ernest Descombes 2009 Morgon

Bottled by Georges Duboeuf. Confession: I have a sentimental attachment to this label which has not changed since I served it at my 30th birthday party 30 years ago. More acidity on the nose than on the regular Morgon. Perhaps more typical but less marked by the vintage? Still a little fizzy on the palate – tastes like work in progress... with some rather sour tannins on the finish. (JR)

13%
Drink
2011
–
2016
16.5

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Tar and sweets and then drying tannins. Lovely red fruit but it's only just peeping past the tannin. (TC) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£12.79 Berkmann Cellars
15.5

Georges Duboeuf, Domaine des Buyats 2009 Régnié

Bright crimson. Very fine and delicate. Like the brush of a feather. Already open and very pretty. The word gouleyant (gets the saliva flowing) is made for a wine like this. Racy and super refreshing. The perfect lunchtime wine? (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
16.5

Jean-Paul Dubost, Le Tracot 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

The domaine is situated in the hamlet of Le Tracot, near Regnié, a noted spot for its Beaujolais Villages. Over the past decade Jean-Paul has built up his holdings to include cuvées of Brouilly, Fleurie, Morgon and Moulin à Vent.
Darker than the Chatoux wine at the same price served alongside. Real bite and savour. Quite dense for a Beaujolais. Real grip here. Not quite ready yet though it would probably be fine with food. I’d start this at the end of northern hemisphere summer. GV (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£9.95 per bottle, or £8.95 by the case BBR
16.5 +

Jean-Paul Dubost, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Brouilly

Sleek and polished. Just a light dusting of tannins. Solid stuff capable of delivering dependable pleasure. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£13.95 per bottle, or £12.55 by the case BBR
16.5

Jean-Paul Dubost, En Brenay 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Mid crimson. Smells quite maceration carbonique. A little bit too much banana for me. Plus some tannin and angular chew. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£15.95 per bottle, or £14.35 by the case BBR
15.5

Henry Fessy 2009 Beaujolais

Smells like wine gums and jelly beans. Quite grapey. Juicy, cherries, bright and smooth. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£8.99-10.99 Forth Wines, Flourish & Prosper, Planet of the Grapes, Taurus
15

Henry Fessy 2009 Brouilly

Dark crimson.  Easy, sweet fruit.  A little industrial and sweetened up.  Fine but not exciting.  Fades fast. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
15.5

Henry Fessy 2009 Chénas

Fruits-of-the-forest cordial on the nose, bitter-sweet cherry and jasmine on the palate. Quite chewy. Scented dry tea leaves. Interesting. (TC) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£10.99 Flourish & Prosper, Planet of the Grapes, Taurus Wines
15.5 +

Henry Fessy 2009 Chiroubles

Very primary aromas – fruit drops, and a little awkward. Chalky tannins and plenty of vim. Tangy redcurrant, cranberry. An appetising dustiness on the finish. Characterful. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£11.99 Taurus Wines, Plant of the Grapes, Flourish & Prosper
16

Henry Fessy 2009 Fleurie

Apple and blackberry cordial on the nose. Smudgy soft tannins, like deep kohl eyeliner, framing blueberry fruit and violets. Green – laurel – notes, crisply cut acidity. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£13.99 Forth Wines, Flourish & Prosper, Nicholas Corke Fine Wines, Taurus Wines
16

Ch de Fleurie 2009 Fleurie

Pretty, feminine roundedness with a good shot of acidity. Unfortunately it finishes all too abruptly and the tannins are just a touch on the raw side. Not quite together. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£10.45-£12.95 Corks Out, Winedrop.co.uk
15

Christian Gaidon 2009 Fleurie

Dark crimson. No sign of a Depagneux connection here. Meaty racy sleek fruit that is just so juicy it gets the appetite going. Very fair price. Already quite polished; the tannins are very well hidden. Some real savour. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£10.50 The Wine Society
16

Stéphane Gardette, Haute Ronze 2009 Régnié

Really good, mouthfilling concentration. Lots of expression, bitter cherry and herbs. A good dense matting of tannins. Depth and colour and dimension. (TC)

13%
Drink
2010
–
2015
€4.20 n/a UK
16.5

Laurent Gauthier, Châtenay 2009 Chiroubles

Mid crimson. Crackling, lively, very recognisably Beaujolais. Fine tannins and persistence suggest a fairly long life in recognisably classic mode. Marked acidity. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2014
16.5

Laurent Gauthier, Grands Cras Vieilles Vignes 2009 Morgon

Dark crimson. Scented and sophisticated on the nose. Very serious and chewy indeed. Still extremely youthful. Lots of tannin even though there is considerable attack too. Vines are 55 years old. Lots of extract and acidity. Dry finish. A sort of Hermitage style of cru Beaujolais! (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2018
Oddbins
17

Ch de Grandmont 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Utterly lip smacking.  This delightfully splits the difference between the lighter examples of Beaujolais-Villages and the more serious Crus wines.  Firm and mineral-scented,  this has succulent fully ripe Gamay fruit that spreads convincingly right across the palate.  Makes you want to sing.  VGV (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£8.75 Christopher Piper
17

Dom des Grands Cèdres 2009 Fleurie

No alcohol level on the label of this wine! Mid crimson. Fresh, light, vibrant fruit that is already appetising. Very straightforward. Quite a bit of acidity on the finish and some light tannins. Quite chewy. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
16

Ch Grange Cochard, Les Charmes 2009 Morgon

Cask sample. Very dark crimson. Almost severe on the nose. Thick and almost treacley – just a little oxidised. Not sure whether this is a sample or a wine thing. Dense and chewy.
Second bottle: A bit fresher on the nose, though this seems as though it has taken ripeness to the limit. Lots of rather severe tannins too. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£15.95 per bottle, or £14.35 by the case BBR
16

Ch Grange Cochard, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Morgon

James and Sarah Wilding have abandoned St Albans for the charms of the Beaujolais countryside and a delightful property close to Morgon with some fine vineyard holdings, all benefiting from old vines. Starting in 2009 they will produce an old-vine blend and two single vineyard wines. Whereas Côte du Py is famed for rugged, structured wines, Les Charmes has more clay in the soil and provides a softer, generous style.
Cask sample. Dark crimson. Rich and rather opulent and Côte d’Or-like even though there is quite a bit tannin here. Easy to see how this would become more like Pinot... (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2019
£13.95 per bottle, or £12.55 by the case BBR
16.5 +

Dom du Griffon 2009 Brouilly

Smells of marshmallows and cherry lozenges. But the palate is surprisingly tightly focused and etched with fine-lined acidity. Earthy, but lifted by notes of grapefruit and orange zest and juniper. Slight dusty, rustic tannins around good fruit. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
€4.50 n/a UK
16.5

Dom des Hauts de Chasselay 2009 Coteaux du Lyonnais

Firm, vibrant crimson from the appellation to the immediate south of Beaujolais and clearly a gifted practitioner for this wine is full of conscientiously grown fruit with real vivacity and a certain interesting smokiness. Lovely for relatively early drinking. Unfortuately The Wine Society don't seem to be listing this yet but it would be ideal for this summer. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
The Wine Society
16

Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot 2009 Morgon

Dark crimson. Scented and rather lusciously fruited. Easy and round. Quite obviously ripe and fruity. Some dry angularity on the very end of the palate. Not quite the vitality of some other wines from this stable. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2015
16.5

Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Perfumed and compact. A touch of wild herbs and absolutely beautiful, perfectly formed strawberry and blueberry and plum. Simply bursting with life and sap and deliciousness. A touch of green coffee bean. Tannins so graceful and limber and glossy that despite their strength one hardly realises they are there. Long, fascinating and fabulous. VGV (TC)
Drink
2012
–
2020
£13.99 The Wine Society
17.5

Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Looks dark and brooding. Lots of juice and extract here. And real tension underneath. This is Beaujolais made for the very long term but with no sacrifice of Beaujolais character. Not trying to be burgundy. I'd happily cellar this for quite a while. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2018
17.5

Dom de Jarentes 2009 Beaujolais

Light purplish crimson. Low-key nose (The Wine Society source many of their Beaujolais, including this one, from negociant Depagneux). A little ho hum with very marked acidity. Just a bit mean for the vintage. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£6.75 The Wine Society
15.5

Ch de Lacarelle 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Mid to light purplish crimson with a slightly industrial nose. Marked acidity after some flattering raspberry fruit. This certainly isn't expensive... Light tannins on the finish. Just a little bit sweetened up? (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£6.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Dom Lagneau 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Sappy raspberry fruit with really mouthfilling but still flirtatious impact. Delightful for current drinking. Not especially persistent or intense but no shortage of keen fruit. Silver medal from Paris. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£8.95 Stone, Vine & Sun
16.5

Jean-Claude Lapalu 2009 Beaujolais

Light and pure and fresh – a complete contrast to the Vieilles Vignes Brouilly. Very much a wine for this summer. Lots of acidity. (JR)
Drink
2010
16

Jean-Claude Lapalu, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Brouilly

Rich, satin smooth, very seductive. Sweeter and more polished than most Beaujolais. Definitely a wine to sweep an unbeliever off their feet. Very intense. Light tannins and low acid – surely quite late picked? Or is it just the age of the vines that does it? Super healthy. It almost recalls a young southern Rhône wine. (JR) 14%
Drink
2010
–
2012
17

Marcel Lapierre 2009 Morgon

This, perhaps surprisingly, was the only 2009 Beaujolais on the list in June at the famous Daniel et Denise bouchon in Lyons. Bottled 25 Mar 2010 according to the label. Lots of fresh fruit and masses of acidity. Pure and straightforward though less mindblowing than our fellow diners had remembered it. When it warmed up it showed appealing taffeta crackle. Very lively. (JR)
Drink
2010
–
2013
16

Dom Lucien Lardy, Les Roches 2009 Fleurie

Mid to dark crimson. Very mineral nose really gets the saliva flowing. Rather more evolved aromatically than some. Apparently this plot is sand over sometimes visible granite. (JR)
Drink
2010
–
2015
17

Thibault Liger-Belair, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Thibault, installed in Nuits St Georges since 2002, finished his wine studies at the Lycee Bel-Air near Belleville a few years earlier. He gained a great enthusiasm for the Beaujolais while he was there, especially the wines of Moulin à Vent. 2009 is the first vintage of a newly acquired property of 3.2 ha. Three wines will be bottled: Les Ruchaux, a vieilles vignes blend (60 years+) and La Roche, a classic terroir with hardly any topsoil and 80-year-old vines, almost next door to Olivier Merlin’s La Rochelle.
Cask sample. Lovely suppleness. So glorious! (JR)
Drink
2011
–
2018
£156 ib BBR
17.5

Maison Jean Loron, Château de Fleurie 2009 Fleurie

Dark crimson.  Quite firm and concentrated – far more so than any vintage of this wine that I remember tasting.  Should not disappoint even if it is not exactly thrilling in the mid palate.  Should develop further.  Fine tannins on the finish.  Sleek. (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2014
16.5

Maison Jean Loron, Château de Bellevue 2009 Morgon

Mid crimson, even a little pale at the rim.  Really meaty and succulent on the nose.   Not forced.  A relatively fruity Morgon – unusual – but with lots of fun and frivolity.  For fairly early drinking as Morgons go.  Juicy and some fine tannins.  (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2014
16

Maison Jean Loron, Champs de Cour Xavier & Nicolas Barbet 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Mid crimson. From vines belonging to the owners of Loron. Traditional techniques, macerations of over 20 days – all the stuff coming back in to the region – so much the better. Scented and full of life. Very polished tannins. Quite different in character to the other wines in the Loron range. Lots of wild life here! In a good way. No biodynamic claims are made on the back label but it certainly tastes pretty lunar. Exciting stuff. Smoother and less tough and sturdy than many wines from this appellation. (JR)

13%
Drink
2010
–
2016
17

Ch des Lumières Louis Jadot, Côte du Py 2009 Morgon

Extremely dark crimson. Very intense indeed – an interesting blend of intensely ripe fruit with strong minerality. No shortage of interest! Then real lift and thrust on the palate – this one is turbo charged, but is not excessively alcoholic. Still too brutal to enjoy at the moment, this wine should have a glorious future. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2020
17.5

Dom de la Madone, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Fleurie

A very sweet nose – loganberry coulis, even liqueur like. Powerful, full bodied, and very un-Fleurie. Huge intensity, with lots of granitic minerality (practically chiselled out of the vineyard, it seems), and then layers of thick crushed mulberry and aniseed. Long too. The big drawback is the heat. That alcohol weighs in with a heavy-handed finish. (TC) 14%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£9.95 Paul Adams Fine Wines
16.5

Dom des Marrans 2009 Chiroubles

Dark crimson. Light but very appetising nose. Sweet fruit on the front palate but a little bit heavy somehow. Not quite as flirtatious as some. Chewy tannins on the finish. Sinewy. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£12.80 per bottle or £155.40 per case Hicks & Don
16.5

Dom des Marrans 2009 Fleurie

Mid crimson and lots of acidity. Sweet but rather simple fruit. Nothing to object to; nothing to enthuse about. Rather dry finish. Just a bit dull. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
£12.95 per bottle or £155.34 per case Hicks & Don
15.5

Dom des Marrans 2009 Juliénas

Quite an alcohol level! And a naughty heavy bottle too, even though the Fleurie of this Marrans trio is the most expensive. Deep crimson. Inky and sweet – almost damson-like sourness – on the nose. This is very intense and unusual, especially in view of that sourness. Very tart finish. Wait! Certainly not comfortable at the moment. Perhaps a bit overdone? (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£12.55 per bottle or £150.60 per case Hicks & Don
16 +

Louis Max 2009 St-Amour

Raspberry and cinnamon on the nose. Quite jammy with a lemony edge, lithe tannins, juicy and simple but easy to drink and enjoy. (TC)
Drink
2010
–
2012
16

Olivier Merlin 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Cask sample. Mineral scented. Polished. Rather Bordelais structure though! A little bit inky. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2017
£126 ib BBR
16.5

Olivier Merlin, La Rochelle 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Cask sample. 2006 was his first vintage here. Transparent crimson. Meaty, appetising nose. Lots of sweetness and chew. Dense and a little bit drying on the finish. Merlin’s Beaujolais are a little more severe/serious than most. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2020
£159 ib BBR
16.5

Dom Métrat 2009 Chiroubles

Pale crimson. Bone dry and very nervy and electric. Lots of ripeness here but it’s clearly one of the more fragile crus too. Dry on the finish for the moment. I’d wait awhile for this. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£14.50 per bottle, or £13.05 by the case BBR
16.5 +

Dom Alain Michaud, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Brouilly

Deep crimson. Very lively and fresh and mineral. Great balance – quite a sweet start but good fresh acidity afterwards. Absolute purists might find this a little too sweet for their taste but it would make a lovely friendly introduction to the uninitiated. Light tannins on the finish. (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£12.95 per bottle, or £11.65 by the case BBR
16

Patriarche 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Scented, a bouquet of peonies, and underneath redcurrant and cherry. The palate is a bit of a jolt in contrast with fairly strident acidity and sharp burlesque-like red fruit like a slash of lipstick. Certainly not dull, but a bit of a painted hussy. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£9.79 Berkmann Wine Cellars
15.5

Pellerin 2009 Morgon

Sweeties, cherry candy nose. Almost plummy in the mouth, it bounces oddly between confected and serious. A bit messy on the finish. Maybe it just needs to settle down? (TC)
Drink
2011
–
2014
Boisset
15.5

Ch de Pizay 2009 Beaujolais

Berry fruit gums and grapetizer aromas, verging on caricature. But all parody drops away on the palate with the first ever-so-gentle tug of tannins, a hint of spice – cinnamon – with an attractively bitter chicory-leaf streak. Pretty good in a quirky way. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£8.99 Le Bon Vin
16

Dom du Pressoir Fleuri 2009 Chiroubles

Liquorice all-sorts aroma. Very minerally, charcoal overlay and chewy/twiggy tannins with a great goosebumpy spine of zest. Such vitality here! Charcoal dust sprinkled over sweet-sour sloe berries and wild brambly red fruit. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2014
€6.75 n/a UK
16.5

Dom Thierry Robin 2009 Régnié

Simple but straight, honest, dancing fruit. No specious confectionery. Fresh and grippy. GV (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
€3.50 n/a UK
15.5

Dom de la Roche St-Martin 2009 Brouilly

Liqueur and then the aroma of damp clay, dill and blackberries. Very herbal on the palate. Green – parsley and dill – and sharply lined. Dusty, ashy tannin. OK, but I'd love to find more juicy fruit in here. (TC)

13%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£11.99 Averys Wine Merchants
15.5

Dom de Rochemure 2009 Beaujolais-Villages

Mid crimson. Light vital rather smoky nose. Very beguiling and open. Super juicy with some lightly chewy tannins but this is developed enough to enjoy already. Practically given away! (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£8.95 per bottle or £107.40 per case Hicks & Don
16.5

Bernard Santé 2009 Chénas

Lots of refreshing, mouthwatering acidity on the nose.  Silky texture.  Utterly soothing even if not desperately stimulating. Clearly the work of an honest farmer somehow.  I see this is a third-generation grower in La Chapelle de Guinchay.  Lots of verve.  (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£10.75 Stone, Vine & Sun
17

Bernard Santé 2009 Juliénas

Lightish ruby. Introvert and minerally then very sweet. I don't really like this very much. Not enough refreshing acidity. Lots of chewy minerals on the finish. A very strong statement. But the statement is not communicating to me. Though it is certainly distinctive. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£14.50 Stone, Vine & Sun
15.5

Cave St-Désirat Gamay 2009 Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche

Even this humble wine is deeper coloured than usual in 2009. Very light nose. Just sort of off-dry fresh fruit with quite a bit of acidity. Not really very strongly Gamay though clean and brisk. Not bad value. I'm sure there are worse AC Beaujolais than this... (JR) 12%
Drink
2010
Marks & Spencer
15

Julien Sunier 2009 Fleurie

Cask sample. Healthy crimson. This wine has withstood the sulphur-free journey better than the straight Beaujolais and suggests there really is something worth paying for here. Slightly candied note though. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2016
£129 ib BBR
16.5

Julien Sunier 2009 Régnié

Cask sample. Light crimson. No sulphur so it has deteriorated unfortunately. Difficult to score. (JR)
Drink
0
£14.95 per bottle, or £13.45 by the case BBR
??

Dom des Terrasses de St-Pré 2009 Beaujolais

Soft and sweet on the nose with mineral, almost slatey notes on the palate entry. Very tangy but some lovely pomegranate fruit over smooth soft tannins. Very, very drinkable. Surprising length and breadth for a simple Beaujolais. GV (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
€5.50 ex cellar
16

Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées 2009 Côte de Brouilly

Mid crimson. Meaty, alluring nose with lots of chew. Crunchy, very pure fruit. Very linear style. Needs to put a little flesh on but its impressively sincere. (JR)

12%
Drink
2012
–
2015
Boredaux Index, Savage Selection
16.5

Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées 2009 Fleurie

Vibrant crimson. Succulent. Polished, very seductive. Lovely slightly inky fruit. Masses of energy and race. Very fine with a dry finish. (JR)

12%
Drink
2010
–
2013
Boredaux Index, Savage Selection
16.5

Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées 2009 Morgon

Mid crimson. Scented, succulent fruit. Lovely polished fruit on the front palate that opened out into a lush, flattering drink with such a lot of ripeness that the considerable tannins are almost completely disguised. Very impressive. The label says that decanting is recommended. I left the bottle open overnight to highly advantageous effect. (JR)

12%
Drink
2010
–
2015
Boredaux Index, Savage Selection
17

Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées 2009 Moulin-à-Vent

Mid crimson. Very fragrant. Then substantial. Much chewier than the Morgon. Tastes much stronger than 12%, and set for the very long term. Ambitious wine that is light years from conventional mass-market Beaujolais. NB suggested drink dates. (JR)

12%
Drink
2012
–
2018
Bordeaux Index, Savage Selection
17

Ch de la Terrière 2009 Régnié

Lovely depth and savour and pull. Raspberry notes overlaid with coriander spice and turmeric. Very complete. (TC)

12.7%
Drink
2010
–
2014
€5.50 n/a UK
16.5 +

Louis Tête 2009 Côte de Brouilly

Cherry candy, cinnamon and liqueur. Very, very spicy – even a red chili note – and a real meatiness. Something warming about this. A belly of red fruit and a lovely cheekiness. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2014
Enotria
16

Ch Thivin, Le Clos Bertrand 2009 Côte de Brouilly

The home vineyard. More juice than the Sept Vignes. Round at the start but then lots of acidity. Real finesse. But not necessarily that much better than the blend, methinks. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£15.50 per bottle, or £13.95 by the case BBR
17

Ch des Tours 2009 Brouilly

Smells a bit stagnant. Metallic and not very approachable. There is a hint of rounded ripe fruit but it's difficult to get past the stalky tannins. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2012
£11 Thorman Hunt
15

Trénel, L'Esprit Marius Sangouard 2009 Juliénas

Dark crimson.  Fairly light and soft for a Juliénas (though it firms up a little on the finish) but there is no shortage of charm and fruit.  Real vibration on the palate.  Hint of liquorice.   Really very attractive now.  Good value.   (JR) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£9.50 The Wine Society
16.5

Villa Ponciago, Les Hauts du Py 2009 Fleurie

Darkish crimson. Less open than La Reserve bottling but equally dry and uncompromising. Fleurie but not as you know it. More like a Morgon in fact in its ambition. Almost austere, which is not a word frequently found in a Beaujolais tasting note but certainly distinctive... (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2016
17

Villa Ponciago, La Réserve 2009 Fleurie

Now that the Ch de Poncié belongs to Henriot, it has been renamed Villa Ponciago – not a name that works well in the UK where the word poncey has negative connotations. Dark crimson. But it's firm and has good attack on the nose. Very confident winemaking. Attractively dry on the finish. This is Fleurie made for the long term. Well done! Real sap and structure to this wine. (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2015
17

Dom Georges Viornery 2009 Brouilly

Quite dark crimson.  Relatively firm and youthful though with explosively ripe fruit, even a slight hint of molasses.  Sturdy stuff.  This one should run and run. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£11.95 Stone, Vine & Sun
17

Dom Georges Viornery 2009 Côte de Brouilly

Mid crimson.  Rather more complex nose than most – not so obviously Beaujolais on the nose.  Lots of taffeta stuffing and just a hint of ink.  Much more than simple fruit – quite a bit of texture here.  Wait a year or so to take maximum advantage of this juicy wine.   (JR) 13%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£10.75 Stone, Vine & Sun
16.5

Dom du Vissoux, Coeur de Vendange 2009 Beaujolais

Smells like Turkish Delight and sweeties melting in the hot sun. Bright and juicy and sour, speckled with dustiness. Smooth clay-textured tannins – light fingered, but definitely encircling the fruit. (TC) 13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Enotria
16

Dom de la Voûte des Crozes 2009 Côte de Brouilly

Nicole Chanrion. Dark crimson. Luscious ripe fruit with real pzazz and life. Lots of richness and intensity. Great value and persistence. So lively! Very fine tannins and real explosive fruit. (JR)

12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£12.15 per bottle or £145.80 per case Hicks & Don
17

Jacques Depagneux, The Society's Exhibition 2009 Fleurie

Another Depagneux wine, this time with The Wine Society's own label on it. Darkish crimson with purple notes. Again, something just a tad industrial on the nose of this – are the wines too heavily filtered, I wonder? Good substance on the palate, the one really crackles and almost fizzes. Should have quite a long life. Lots of interest on the palate here – it's just the nose that lets it down. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£9.50 The Wine Society
16

WHITE

Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot, Grand Clos de Loyse 2009 Beaujolais

Quite intense, sharp and sherbet-dabbed nose; some white blossom. That same rather etched intensity in the mouth. Lime bonbons and lacy elderflower notes with a lovely sweet-sour tang and a come-out-and-play pull to the finish. (TC)
Drink
2010
–
2011
£14.29 Corking Wines
16.5

Dom Romy, Terra Vitis 2009 Beaujolais

A Terroirs et Talents property. Glimpses of Chablis on the nose. The front palate is taut and lean with wet-stone minerality and lemon, a hint of oatmeal. Almost austere but tremendous tightly coiled energy and depth, glittering with citrus, softened a little by white blossom. As crisply folded as freshly starched linen. (TC) 12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
16.5

Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées 2009 Beaujolais

Full, succulent super-juicy nose with hints of overripe greengages. Lots of flavour here. Still a little chewy on the finish. Bumptious. (JR)

12%
Drink
2011
–
2013
Boredaux Index, Savage Selection
16.5