After yesterday’s P2 vertical, here’s another vertical of a very special luxury champagne that, I was assured, was a first. As Bruno Paillard sat down with me and Alistair Viner in the chilly cellar of Hedonism wine store in Mayfair in London, he assured us that this was the very first time he had tasted a full vertical of his top bottling, NPU, or Nec Plus Ultra. Mind you, he had never been to Hedonism before so was a little distracted by the sheer number of great bottles that surrounded us.
The willowy, well-connected Bruno Paillard (who eats like...