I first met Frank Cornelissen at a very informal tasting and dinner in London in May 2011 – the informality and the dinner courtesy of David Harvey of Raeburn Fine Wines, importers of Cornelissen's wines. In fact Harvey worked a harvest with Cornelissen in 2004 and started importing the wines in 2005, then took them with him when he moved to Raeburn. The shock of the evening was something that Frank said, not something that he poured: 'I have never tasted a good Riesling'. After I had put my jaw back in place, he said that he might have tasted...