Justerini and Brooks’s Barolo tasting has become an annual fixture on the London tasting calendar, and a clear sign that the Langhe has made big inroads in the UK. This has been helped by their customers’ lukewarm enthusiasm for Bordeaux (though this may be rekindled by the favourably received 2015s) and the very expensive burgundy offerings of late. When I was a wine buyer in London in 2005, Barolos were a tough sell, and Justerini’s stock sheet that was regularly sent to me was full of older vintages at embarrassingly low prices.
Those days are clearly over, but compared...