In macro contrast to the Calmel and Joseph micro is Domaines Paul Mas. I spent a furious-paced evening at Côté Mas in Montagnac, tasting through a 'small selection, just four or five' (which had proliferated to 30-odd by the time I got there) of the Paul Mas wines before dining in the restaurant, where, for one night only, Jean-Claude Mas himself was busy in the kitchen. Although, as a waitress confided in me with a wry smile, she wasn't quite sure what he was up to and that perhaps he might be causing a little chaos. Then she shrugged and...