These 85 tasting notes were taken in August 2015 during a visit to the Pfalz and Rheinhessen regions. Together, they ably demonstrate the full diversity of German winemaking – for more details, read my accompanying article Pfalz pretences.
The tasting notes are arranged in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name, then in order of tasting.
WEINGUT AM NIL
Weingut am Nil, Riesling Deutscher Sekt Brut 2013 Pfalz
12 months on lees. 3,000 bottles made.
Smart, sharp palate. Bitter citrus fruit – grapefruit, lime and lemon skin. Sherbet on the finish. (RH)
Weingut am Nil Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
Picked over four weeks. Pungent and herby with a sweaty green scent. Plenty of flavour and perhaps just a little too much sulphur giving an acrid edge to the nose. (RH)
12.5%Weingut am Nil Weissburgunder 2014 Pfalz
Neutral, plain white fruit. Slightly pétillant on the palate. Modern and clean-cut. Technical and brisk. (RH)
12.5%Weingut am Nil Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Light lime aroma. Floral character on the palate, dry finish. Honest varietal character and a simple, straightforward palate. (RH)
13%Weingut am Nil, Ungsteiner Riesling 2013 Pfalz
Reasonably straightforward nose. Lots of salinity on the palate, especially at the finish. Robust acidity, subtle floral notes but the dominant feature is intense lime compress. Deserves time to mature and let the fruit evolve. (RH)
13%Weingut am Nil, Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Matured in 500-litre oak barrels, 25% of which were new.
Tight, compact, minimalist nose. Convincing purity on the palate, and there is a pleasant lime density on the finish. Certainly has the fruit potential to age well, if not the most aromatically diverse aromas. (RH)
Weingut am Nil, Kallstadter Saumagen Spätburgunder 2013 Pfalz
100% new oak. Served chilled.
Sweet floral aroma. Redcurrant, cranberry, a good dose of herby character. Just a little too bitter, on balance – strikes me as slightly underripe. (RH)
BISCHEL
Bischel, Binger Riesling trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Apple, salt, smoky flint and a very slight lick of sweetness on the finish. Generous, simple and varietal. (RH)
Bischel, Binger Quarzit Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
Reductive notes on the nose giving a sulphurous edge. Tight, prickly palate – very youthful indeed. Enough fruit to merit a few years’ cellaring but not for the very long term. (RH)
Bischel, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
Smoke and spice on the nose, lovely pure lemon on the palate. Slightly tart and bitter, though it is balanced and lengthy. (RH)
DREISSIGACKER
Dreissigacker, Organic Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
Juicy, dry, simple fragrance. Light and zesty. Straightforward, focused. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Riesling trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Orange peel, lemon zest, honey, blossom, ripe fruit. Direct, fruit-driven, good varietal character. Very citric finish. (RH)
12%Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Riesling 2013 Rheinhessen
Juicy, tropical fruit with a cooked vegetal character. Totally fresh and attractive, however – the balance of flavours on the palate is very well judged and very moreish. Long, succulent finish with a refined mineral character. (RH)
12%Dreissigacker, Wunderwerk Riesling 2013 Rheinhessen
Restrained, tense citrus fruit. Savoury and dry on the finish, lots of acidity and brightness. Excellent quality of fruit. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling 2011 Rheinhessen
Stewed apricot and lemon with honeycomb and crystallised ginger. Exotic bergamot spice and violets too. Superb volubility – really expresses the place, and has outstanding fruit clarity. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
Tank sample. Some pungent sulphur, understandably. Great fruit clarity beneath, and a chewy texture suggesting good potential. Fragrant, potent and resonant. Very much a provisional score, as it is perishingly young. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling 2010 Rheinhessen
Macerated for 6-7 days. High disease pressure in this vintage, but they did not include any botrytised fruit.
Indulgent marmalade and lemon curd fruit, sweet spice and a luscious creamy character. Superb extrovertness, and just a little oxidative touch on the finish. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Stein Riesling Auslese 2008 Rheinhessen
Superb interplay of sugar and acid in the way that Riesling does so effortlessly. Confected fruit, spice and perhaps a little bit of petrol on the finish. (RH)
Dreissigacker, Wunderwerk Spätburgunder 2012 Rheinhessen
Soy, black cherry, smoke – wonderful nose with a lovely clove spice. Sleek, rounded texture. Smart, vibrant acid. Elegant, with distinct German structure – taut and crisp. (RH)
KRUGER-RUMPF
Kruger-Rumpf, Binger Riesling trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Very ripe style – baked apple, pineapple, melon. Juicy acidity, loads of modern, clean fruit. (RH)
Kruger-Rumpf, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2014 Rheinhessen
As with their Binger Riesling, this is an overripe, candied style. Potent, orange cordial sort of fruit. There’s a dairy character too – this shows the weightiest style of German Riesling. (RH)
Kruger-Rumpf, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling 2013 Rheinhessen
Thick and ripe, and behaves very much like a sweeter style until the bone dry finish. Intense, long, bursting with juicy fruit. Lovely savoury aftertaste too – savoury, slightly leesy and with a flash of green. (RH)
Kruger-Rumpf, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spätlese 2014 Rheinhessen
Acid that punches straight through the sweetness – a great feat of balance. Succulent, pure fruit with delicious lemon sherbet finish. Lengthy, moreish and satisfying. (RH)
MUSSLER
Mussler Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
Pungent, herbal, grassy, quite light and soft on the palate. (RH)
Mussler Chardonnay 2014 Pfalz
Quite neutral nose, creamy palate with apricot, peach and toffee. Standard Chardonnay with good ripeness and softness. (RH)
Mussler, Grosskarlbacher Riesling trocken 2014 Pfalz
Quite a prickly sulphur scent, then apricot and sweet citrus. Fairly light palate with a steely, tart edge. (RH)
Mussler, Freinsheimer Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Pfalz
Aged in 500 litre oak for six months.
Sweet cream with bitter lemon fruit, a lovely combination that favours oak but is very drinkable and appealing. Graves meets Sancerre. (RH)
Mussler Gelber Muskateller 2014 Pfalz
Grape juice, white flowers, a pinch of bitter lemon. Simple, dry finish. Very drinkable. (RH)
Mussler, Kirchheimer Steinacker Riesling trocken 2014 Pfalz
High acid and pithy citrus. Lime juice, green apple and lemon sherbet. Crisp and crunchy. Substantial. (RH)
Mussler St Laurent 2013 Pfalz
Herby, stemmy, ripe red fruit with a dark smoky edge. Full of personality and flair. Punches above its weight. (RH)
13.5%Mussler, Cuvée S 2013 Pfalz
75% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 25% Lemberger.
Fairly non-descript fruit, and the palate has a heavy oak element. Hard acid, peppery finish. (RH)
Mussler, Grosskarlbacher Spätburgunder 2013 Pfalz
Sweet red fruit, high acid, light body, bitter finish. (RH)
Mussler, Laumersheimer Steinbuckel Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Pfalz
Modern, fragrant, sweet oak, vanilla; dry but very ripe. Classic Cabernet in a New World mould. (RH)
14.5%ODINSTAL
Odinstal, Riesling Deutscher Sekt Brut Nature NV Pfalz
Magnum only. 18 months on lees.
Acidity rules the palate – a little more dosage wouldn't go amiss, I think! Leafy and linear. (RH)
Odinstal, Nature Sylvaner 2014 Pfalz
Cloudy gold colour. Conventionalists be warned! 60% oak, 40% amphora (25% whole bunches for nine months). No sulphur added. Potent lemon skin and yoghurt character, some banana and crème fraîche character. Earthy and herbal. Interesting and personable, with nothing too outlandish about it, though it is definitely 'natural'. (RH)
Odinstal, Muschelkalk Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Lime marmalade and a seaweed sort of herby note. Chewy texture and surprisingly soft acid. Polished but with grit and grain on the palate to give substance and shape. (RH)
Odinstal, Buntsandstein Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Honey and lime zest, floral perfume, more substance and chunkiness than their Muschelkalk. Creamy and ripe on the palate with impressive length. Plump by Riesling standards. (RH)
13%Odinstal, Basalt Weissburgunder 2014 Pfalz
Salty, volcanic – definite lava stink here. Has a quality similar to Santorini or Tenerife – fibrous yet creamy. Apricot fruit. Resplendent, expressive – the true face of Pinot Blanc. (RH)
Odinstal, Basalt Riesling 2005 Pfalz
Slinks out of the glass – bright but with a creamy character too. Just a touch of oxidative orange peel scent on the finish. Long, fragrant length with a nutty character. (RH)
13.5%Odinstal, 350 NN Gewurztraminer 2014 Pfalz
From vineyards 350 metres above sea level.
Quite suppressed aromatic scent, very little of the flamboyance that usually characterises this variety. Has a sort of milkiness on the palate. Finishes dry. (RH)
Odinstal, Wachenheimer Schlossberg Rieslaner Auslese 2014 Pfalz
Very little aroma, but sufficient fruit on the palate with well-balanced acid and sweetness (just over 100 g/l of residual sugar). A tickling sulphur prickle on the throat. Not at all cloying; really precise – but the flavour range is pretty conservative. (RH)
REICHSRAT VON BUHL
Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Deutscher Sekt Brut 2013 Pfalz
RS 6.9 g/l, TA 10.2 g/l. 7 mg free SO2. First wine made by the new team.
Combines yeasty autolysis and lime freshness. Splendid purity on the palate, crystal clear and accurate. Not merely technical though, there is a lovely umami savoury character giving soy and mushroom character. Returning to the nose, it is really sophisticated and attractive. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Pfalz
RS 0.6 g/l, TA 9.2 g/l.
Ripe vegetal character, brisk citrus fruit and lots of concentration. Not austere, but certainly tight and dense. Slate finish. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Production of 50,000 bottles. RS 0.8 g/l. Blend of seven different parcels of what is effectively Spätlese trocken – though that term is not stated on the label, as per the VDP rules.
Regal perfume, floral and limey, slaty and saline. Persistent, pure fruit with lovely clarity and polish. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheimer Riesling 2014 Pfalz
RS 0.7 g/l, TA 8.7 g/l.
Subtle oil aromas, lime juice, snappy finish with a defined stony edge. Orange peel and a touch of leafiness. Excellent definition and great resonance: smart, brisk, crisp but not austere. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Honeyed nose, fragrant and slaty. Operatic Riesling – epic fruit intensity and powerful, lengthy finish. Gets all the mineral quality of Riesling too, and should age brilliantly. (RH)
13.5%Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2014 Pfalz
Apricot, peach, honey and caramel. Completely beautiful – so expressive and alluring on the nose, then the palate is precisely balanced with breadth and substance. So indulgent but with no excess flab. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2014 Pfalz
Similar fruit quality to their Ungeheuer – almost tropical. Creamy mouthfeel then a leesy texture that gives great persistence. It sort of reminds me of top Godello, and has the same sea salt minerality. Magnificent. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Suez Rosé Spätburgunder 2014 Pfalz
Onion skin colour. Proper red fruit aromas on the nose. Bone dry, sharp and tight. Errs on the acidic side and that overrides the fruit ripeness on the finish. (RH)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Scheurebe Auslese 2013 Pfalz
RS 110 g/l. Pineapple, melon, cherry – really fruity yet dainty. Very nicely done with elegance and balance. (RH)
9%Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese 2013 Pfalz
Relatively restrained nose, but extravagant and indulgent on the palate with acidity that shimmers through the sugar. Completely infantile but beautiful and layered. (RH)
10%RIFFEL
Riffel, Binger Quarzit Silvaner trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Salty nose, white fruit in a fairly light mode. Medium bodied, smooth, neutral. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg Turm Silvaner 2014 Rheinhessen
Savoury palate yet has a boiled sweet and ripe citrus fruit character. Thick, viscous mouthfeel. Mixed peel and spice on the finish. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg Turm Silvaner 2013 Rheinhessen
Cooked vegetables on the nose – some underripeness? Has an almost celery sort of flavour. Nicely balanced on the palate, technically correct, and there’s good persistence on the finish, but the flavour is quite green. (RH)
Riffel, Riesling trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Rich and quite thickly textured. Finishes dry, but has a sweetness to the fruit that also gives the volume. Appealing, easy-drinking. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Quarzit Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
White currant, lime juice, metallic and steely on the nose. Convincing – goes above and beyond simple fruit in the way that single site wines should. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling trocken 2014 Rheinhessen
Quite a creamy and dairy-scented nose. Lemon posset? Dry and balanced on the finish, moderate length. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling trocken 2013 Rheinhessen
Ripe vegetal character, blackcurrant leaf, juicy and bold. Strong herbal element running through. Confected fruit. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling trocken 2012 Rheinhessen
Open, succulent nose with oil and petrol alongside the ripe apricot fruit. Complex, rich, and maturing very generously. Delivers a lot of developed character with primary fruit all intact. (RH)
Riffel, Binger feinherb Riesling 2014 Rheinhessen
RS 16 g/l. Only subtley sweet, with plenty of ripe fruit and spritz on the palate. Lively, simple, satisfying – hits the off-dry target like only Riesling can. (RH)
Riffel, Binger Scharlachberg feinfrüchtig Riesling Auslese 2013 Rheinhessen
Impressive nose of roses, lemon cordial, herbs, white fruit and honey. Has the same smoke and mineral edge of their dry wines too – good vindication of the terroir. Generous, opulent but controlled. (RH)
MARKUS SCHNEIDER
Markus Schneider, Kaitui Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
Great vibrancy and purity, but not overtly fruity. Satisfying and balanced with impressive concentration and ripeness but finishes dry. (RH)
Markus Schneider, Kaitui Fumé Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
Rich ochre colour, sweet oak scent giving vanilla, clove and cinnamon. Tropical fruit with, if anything, slight overripeness and a lack of zip. But the flavour is so satisfying. (RH)
Markus Schneider, Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Very bright fruit: lemon curd, slate and granite – proper goût de terroir – and a generous, fragrant fruit. Attractive, elegant, ageworthy. (RH)
Markus Schneider, Dürkheimer Fuchsmantel Riesling 2014 Pfalz
Very floral character – almost like Muscat with rose and violet aroma. There’s a nutty note too, as well as bright lime fruit. Superb clarity and lots of interesting range of flavour. (RH)
13%Markus Schneider, Reserve Riesling 2003 Pfalz
From Saumagen. Developed, ripe, honey and a touch of caramel and ginger. Fleshy and creamy on the palate, and a toasty character that is straight out of the Hunter Semillon rulebook. (RH)
12.5%Markus Schneider, Ellerstadter Kirchenstück Riesling 2002 Pfalz
Gold. Creamy, white coffee, honey, dairy. Smoky and saline. Has a very similar style to top old champagne. Peachy and complex and lengthy. Also has a sort of sausage meat character. Superb. (RH)
Markus Schneider, Holy Moly Syrah 2012 Pfalz
Stunning fruit and pepper scent. Beautifully crafted – the scent is pure Syrah – violets and black fruit. Juicy on the palate, loads of spicy oak too. It’s modern and sleek with no earthy Rhône character, but it isn’t as heavy as South Australia. A complete triumph! (RH)
14.5%Markus Schneider, Holy Moly Syrah 2009 Pfalz
Stemmy notes and quite baked fruit. Smoked bacon and hickory character – sweet but pungent. Impressive but not as rounded and complete as the 2012. (RH)
15%Markus Schneider, Tailor Reserve 2007 Pfalz
Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Opulent, bursting with fruit, and with a great deal of balsamic and sweet spice. Firm structure, but the tannin has a plushness that is really drinkable. More like Bolgheri than Bordeaux, but very much valid in its own right. (RH)
Markus Schneider, Tailor Reserve 2004 Pfalz
Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
The astonishing thing about this wine is the genuine Bordelais maturity – cedar, spice, marzipan, black cherry – it is complete and vibrant and has a port-like juiciness to the fruit. This is a phenomenon – it must be tasted to be believed! (RH)
Markus Schneider, Botas 2012 Pfalz
Fortified. Made from Cabernet Cubin, a 1970s cross of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Minty, spirity and fragrant. Dense, hot, potent and fragrant. Glossy texture, lovely balance and intensity. Succulent but simple and satisfying. (RH)
STRAUCH
Strauch, Zéro Deutscher Sekt Brut Nature 2012 Rheinhessen
100% Pinot Blanc.
No sulphur, no dosage. Ripe yellow fruit, creamy and buttery on the nose. Clean, fresh, non-autolytic but very nicely balanced. Reasonably short finish. (RH)
Strauch, Pinot Blanc Deutscher Sekt NV Rheinhessen
Dosage 6 g/l.
Juicy, snappy, green citrus. Smooth and drinkable but simple and fresh. (RH)
Strauch, Riesling Deutscher Sekt NV Rheinhessen
Dosage 9 g/l.
Lemon and lime fruit, pithy palate with a simple, short finish. (RH)
Strauch, Rosé Deutscher Sekt Brut NV Rheinhessen
95% Chardonnay with 5% Pinots Meunier and Noir blended in.
Very pale indeed. Vegetal, underripe nose. Basic and boring. (RH)
Strauch, Isabel Demi-Sec NV Rheinhessen
Scheurrebe, Muscat and Gewurztraminer.
Weird honey and bitter citrus fruit, plus tinned sweetcorn flavour. Finishes very sweetly. (RH)
VON WINNING
von Winning, Win Win Riesling trocken 2014 Pfalz
Melon, citrus and acidity that bucks like a bronco. Great power and convinction. Modern and savoury. (RH)
12.5%von Winning, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling trocken 2013 Pfalz
Acacia, honey, lime pickle, sherbet, bitter leaf – all well integrated. Fragrant, tense, fairly light fruit intensity. (RH)
12%von Winning, Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling trocken 2013 Pfalz
Golden Delicious apple, honey and spice. Dry and layered with finely crosshatched texture. Long finish. (RH)
12%von Winning, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling trocken 2014 Pfalz
Honeyed, broad, honeysuckle, mandarin and lime flavours. Rich, succulent and well structured – it's fairly heavy, but is kept limber by classic high acidity. (RH)
12%von Winning, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2014 Pfalz
Pretty prominent oak for Riesling. Tropical fruit with ripe, opulent flavours plus toasted aromas and a spicy length. (RH)
von Winning, II Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
Textural rather than fruity, and has a salinity and flint character evoking the Loire. (RH)
von Winning, I Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Pfalz
75% oak aged, of which 15% was new, for 12 months.
Bold nose with lots of Graves-style spice, butter, cream and white chocolate. Savoury yet full of extravagant flavour. (RH)
von Winning, Violette Pinot Noir 2012 Pfalz
Aged 18 months in barrel. Quite cooked fruit, and a smoky overtone. Chewy and meaty with a varnished note. (RH)