Those most closely involved in the extraordinary story of the revival of Priorat met in Barcelona last week to celebrate their 25th anniversary. (You can catch up with the story of how Priorat began to change from an almost abandoned corner of Catalunya to a prosperous and well-regarded wine region in Priorat – worth the money and in the Priorat entry in your online Oxford Companion).
Five visionaries led by René Barbier (Clos Mogador) started almost from zero, sharing the same facility to produce what can be regarded as the first great contemporary Priorat wine in 1989. They were...