Before embarking on the recent Southwold 2005 tastings, I imagined that some of the wines might have started to retreat into their shells. After all, this is a vintage with no shortage of tannin and the likelihood that it will outlast many of us. But I was quite surprised by how relatively open and approachable most of the red wines were, with some of them having so much ripe fruit that they could almost have ben enjoyed straightaway, were it not for the knowledge that at these prices, one is really paying for the ability to age and so it...