Sweet and strong assortment

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See Sorting through the assortments for a guide to the collections of tasting notes already published and those yet to come.

More than 70 sweet and strong wines here for our seasonal delectation. An array of great sherries first, then a wide variety of sweet wines of many different strengths, and finally some ports. A collection of tasting notes on mouthwatering madeiras will follow next month.

Within each group, the wines are listed in order of descending score.


SHERRY

Equipo Navazos, 52 La Bota de Palo Cortado NV Jerez – Xérès – Sherry

Young wine from the 2010 vintage but it may well be refreshed in future. Palomino from Sanlucar – exactly the same as Mas Alla but fortified to 18% and aged in 600-litre sherry casks and more recently in Bordeaux casks.
Pale brassy colour. Very umami on the nose! Vibrant and rich and super-tangy. Fabuloso. Rich yet lively and bone dry on the end. Real energy. (JR)

15%
Drink
2014
2019
£49 RRP
18

Equipo Navazos, 45 La Bota de Fino Amontillado NV Montilla-Moriles

Bottled Oct 2013 from Perez Barquero. PX not Palomino and probably unfortified. About 20 years old.
Dark copper. Really tangy nose. Notably fruity nose. Broad and very fresh. Wonderfully earthy. Mushroomy. I’d love to drink this with a savoury dish with a creamy mushroom sauce. (JR)

15.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£42
 RRP
17.5

Equipo Navazos, Navazos En Rama Fino NV Jerez – Xérès – Sherry

Saca of March 2014. Not yet on sale in the UK yet but should be from Feb next year. It’s a Fino in answer to the I Think Manzanilla bottling for Bibendum, Australia!
Really impressive on the nose. Lovely balance. Limpid and salty. Really lovely and perfectly balanced. Firm and fine. Solid and salty. (JR)

15%
Drink
2014
2018
£11.50 37.5cl RRP
17.5

Equipo Navazos, I Think En Rama NV Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Saca of October, 2010.
 Deep coppery colour. Lots of evolution – very different on the nose – and actually tastes as though it had a bit of oak age! Full and satisfying with just as much refreshment as the 2014 bottling but with less freshness. You could love this with food. Whereas the 2014 bottling is an aperitif wine. (JR)

Drink
2010
2015
16.5

Equipo Navazos, I Think En Rama NV Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Saca of October, 2014. Just arrived. Latest release of something that started with the 2010 release intended for Oddbins initially. Sells very well in the US and Australia. Pale. Lots of tang and then like a feather brushing the palate. Lightly nutty and flattering. Probably about four years average. Bone dry and yet revitalizing. Very, very clean. Bone dry. (JR)

Drink
2014
2018
£11.50 per half RRP
16.5

Equipo Navazos, 46 La Bota de Oloroso NV Montilla-Moriles

Pedro Ximénez from Perez Barquero. Maybe 25-30 years. Deep lustrous golden tawny. Just a little syrupy on the nose. It’s easier to see that this is Pedro Ximénez. Vibrant but a little bit heavy underneath.

(JR) 20.5%
Drink
2014
2017
£49 RRP
16.5

Equipo Navazos, 47 Bota NO La Bota de Palo Cortado NV Jerez – Xérès – Sherry

This is from a cask you’re not allowed in – with padlock! Comes from a stock that was forgotten about. Greenish brownish mid tawny. Rancio nose. Super tangy fragilistic. Quite extreme and extraordinary. Hard work! Should be an ingredient rather than a wine, I feel. Fruit left this long ago… For interest only. (JR)

15%
Drink
2014
2018
£90 37.5cl RRP
16

Cazes, Ambré 2000 Rivesaltes

Organic. Elegant tall bottle and attractive pale orange colour and some rancio notes on the nose but a little soft, raisiny and dull on the palate. Not expensive but not thrilling. (JR)

16.5%
Drink
2014
2015
£8.99 per half Majestic
15.5

SWEET

Bott, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2008 Tokaj

Honey, marmalade, lemon juice. Sumptuous, indulgent, exotic and thoroughly delicious. Crystallised ginger, floral character, citrus peel. Great length. And miraculously fresh on the finish. Masterful. (RH)

Drink
2014
2024
18.5

Bentomiz, Ariyanas Terruño Pizarroso Dulce 2007 Málaga

Sun-dried Moscatel de Alexandria, six months in French oak. Deep burnished gold. Intensely aromatic – marmalade, bitter orange and caramelised apricot. Still manages to be fragrant even though it is so intense. Super sweet and tangy but complex too – the oak is in the background giving just a touch of spice. Very long and delicious with an aftertaste of honeyed apricots. (JH)

Drink
2012
2017
17.5

Pelle, Zsofia 2011 Tokaj

Late harvest. Marmalade, lime curd, caramelised nuts and a heavenly, fabulous succulence. Just a touch of vegetal character to finish. Wonderful! (RH)

11%
Drink
2014
2018
£22 per 50 cl Theatre of Wine
17.5

Trinity Hill, Gimblett Gravels Noble Viognier 2009 Hawke's Bay

RS 200 g/l, approximately.Rich gold. Minty, marmalade, ginger. Really sweet and very unctuous. Superb richness and texture; superb volume of flavour. I’d actually like to see a little more new oak here, for even more complexity. (RH)

12.5%
Drink
2012
2018
17

Greywacke, Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2009 Marlborough

Pale gold. Intense and inviting aroma of very ripe apricots plus pineapple and a note of honey. Gewürztraminer's classic rose-like perfume is just discernible, more so on the palate, but the botrytis apricot and orange dominate. Some delicate almond character too. Unctuous and deeply sweet but with the acidity to keep it balanced. Viscous without being heavy. Delicious and with the potential to age further. (JH)


12%
Drink
2013
2017
17

Ch Pierre-Bise, Les Rouannières 2010 Coteaux du Layon

Golden orange colour. Unusual nose: chamomile, hay and apricots. Honeyed and gorgeous on the palate. I'd love to try this with some hard cheeses. Silky texture, viscous but no heaviness. GV (JH)

10%
Drink
2014
2018
£16.50 per 50 cl Stone, Vine & Sun
17

Ch Richard, Coup de Coeur 2009 Saussignac

Bergerac blend of botrytised Muscadelle, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Round, golden and very sweet without masses of acidity but at its peak and deliverer of huge pleasure. At its peak now. GV (JR)

11.5%
Drink
2012
2016
£24.99 per 50cl Handford
17

Kyperounda 2005 Commandaria

Deep gold. Aromas of stewed – reduced to intensity – apricot, tangy marmalade, and similarly intense and tangy on the palate, with very good freshness and a gently warming finish. Delicious and finely made. (JH)

13%
Drink
2014
2014
£17.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
17

Dom de la Renardière NV Macvin du Jura

Lots of fun, almond essence and freshness. I think any household would wallop this over Christmas. So bright. Maybe it is walnuts…?! (JR)

18%
Drink
2014
2016
£25 The Wine Society
16.5

Bentomiz, David Naturalmente Dulce 2012 Vino de España

100% Merlot. First vintage 2009. They wanted to make a wine that would go with chocolate. Bought-in fruit. Sun-dried grapes (rather than late harvest) so that the acidity was retained. 4 months in French oak – 1 to 2 years old. 15-18 days' ferment. RS 115 g/l RS.
Aroma of orange and spice and doesn't really smell sweet. Very slight hint of raisins. Nice dry tannins to keep it dry with sweet cherry in the middle. Cherries and fig. Works with game and with chocolate figs, apparently. Very good and definitely a food wine thanks to the tannins.

13.5%
Drink
2014
2016
16.5

Ch Rieussec 2008 Sauternes

Pale orange and relatively low in acidity but with lots of depth, richness and complexity. Cheese, please! But this is really a candidate for the cellar rather than the table for the moment. (JR)

Drink
2016
2034
£65 Handford
16.5

Barberani, Aleatico Passito 2007 IGT Umbria

Deep purple-crimson. Perfumed and rich. Wild dark berries and cassis, with sage and juniper notes looming up on the finish. Real tang and intensity, despite the opulent sweetness of the wine. A purple explosion! Really quite delicious and a rather good lower-alcohol alternative to port. (TC)

13%
Drink
2013
2022
16.5

Clemente Guasti, Spumante NV Brachetto d'Acqui

Pale strawberry red. Heady raspberry pop on the nose. Almost smells syrupy. Very sweet and frothy. Like liquidised strawberry mousse. Not astringent but a real challenge for food matching because it is too light for most sweet foods. Just sliced strawberries? A curiosity… (JR)

6.5%
Drink
2014
2015
£13.41 The Sampler
16

Ch Tirecul La Gravière, Les Pins 2012 Monbazillac

Not 100% clean and fresh but with great sweet apricot compote fruit. Very sweet. At the end of a meal people may not notice the lack of 100% purity. GV (JR)

12.5%
Drink
2014
2017
£12.95 per 50 cl Lea & Sandeman
16

Barberani, Calcaia Muffa Nobile Dolce Superiore 2010 Orvieto Classico

'Muffa nobile' means noble rot. The Calcaia vineyard has a particular microclimate which means that it is affected by thick fog on autumn mornings.They harvest five or six times during November and December, with a very long slow fermentation. Grechetto, Trebbiano Procanico, Sauvignon Blanc.
Pale amber and smells of marmalade. Surprisingly light on the palate, layers of clementine peel, white currants and honeybush tea. Lots of orange. A slight hole towards the finish, but it would be great with a slice of lemon drizzle cake! (TC)

10.5%
Drink
2013
2016
£20 The Wine Society
16

Casa Silva, Late Harvest 2012 Colchagua

Semillon and Gewurz blend. Much, much richer and more convincing than the 2013. Deep-flavoured even if far from subtle. A little sticky but the balance is ok. (JR)

12.5%
Drink
2014
2015
£8.95 per half from various independents
15.5

Ch Vartely, Ice Wine 2011 Moldova

Picked at -7 ° C. RS 210 g/l. Rich and sweet but a bit thick and jagged. Sherbet elixir.

(JR) 10.5%
Drink
2014
2016
£16.99 per half Adnams
15.5

Barberani, Villa Monticello Moscato Passito 2009 IGT Umbria

100% Moscato Bianco. 12 months in stainless steel. TA 5.6 g/l, RS 140 g/l. In a 500 ml bottle.
Pale amber. Lusciousness balloons out of the glass, peach and plum dripping with honey. Tastes not unlike a teaspoon of liquid apricot jam. Very rich and a lovely expression of fruit, but it does seem to lack a bit of acidity, giving it a somewhat cloying finish. You'd tire of this after a very small glass. (TC)

10.5%
Drink
2012
2015
15.5

Ch Les Mingets 2010 Sauternes

Golden, scented with barley sugar and almond paste. Fat on the palate and lacks freshness to balance. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2014
2020
£16.50 per half Stone, Vine & Sun
15

Dom des Baumard, Carte d'Or 2012 Coteaux du Layon

Screwcapped half bottle. Rather tired nose and watery on the palate. Where's the Chenin cut? Light toastiness but pretty dull really. (JR)

12%
Drink
2014
2016
£9.99 The Vineyard of Dorking, Sheridan Coopers
15

Casa Silva, Late Harvest 2013 Colchagua

Light and crisp and floral. Lacks intensity. Just (quite) sweet and simple. Fast fade. (JR)

12.5%
Drink
2014
2015
£8.95 per half from various independents
14.5

Grant Burge, 10 Year Old Tawny NV Barossa

A blend of Grenache, Mataro and Shiraz. Matured in a solera.
Pecan brown. Not unlike an Oloroso on the nose – more so than a tawny port. Gingerbread and toasted coconut and almonds. A spicy savoury nose that reminds me of sawmills and old furniture shops. Molasses and cola, dried figs, more coconut and cedar spice. Layered and just as savoury tasting as it smells despite that fig-syrup note and the rich slow texture. Clean finish. Very well made! (TC)

19%
Drink
2014
2025
17

PORT

Quinta do Noval, 20 Year Old Tawny NV Port

Pretty sweet, rosy tawny colour with more depth than Graham's and Taylor's 20 Year Olds. Great depth and toffee and real age. Sumptuous, complex. (JR)

20.5%
Drink
2014
2018
£40 The Wine Society
18.5

Taylor's, 20 Year Old Tawny NV Port

Frosted bottle. Vegy, savoury, not that sweet and refined. Lots of fun. Silky smooth. (JR)

20%
Drink
2014
2018
£34 The Wine Society
18

Quinta do Vesúvio 2004 Port

Seems a little raw after three 20 Year Old Tawnys! But correct and very fine. Sinewy and with great integrity, but quite dry. (JR)

20.5%
Drink
2017
2035
£36 The Wine Society
18