Trefethen triumphs in the end

If you wait long enough, your time will come (as Brian Croser described yesterday – see Croser crows a little). This seemed to be the message loud and clear when, at the end of April, Janet Trefethen and her son Lorenzo of the relatively cool Oak Knoll District in the south of the Napa Valley came to London to show off a selection of their historic vintages. 

No one could accuse OKD of having ridden the Napa wave. It got its own AVA only in 2004 after 11 years of lobbying, and is distinctly short of high-profile, cult wineries. The Trefethens are...