All Dom Pérignon's P2s

Big mystery: why when a pair of young biotechnologist graduates of the University of British Columbia wanted to prove that they could create a wine using only chemicals rather than grapes, did they choose to try to replicate something that requires such an enormous amount of technique as Dom Pérignon 1992 rather than a much simpler still wine? This has been bothering me ever since I read about it last week in this New Scientist article...