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Burgundy 2010

Burgundy 2010 D–J

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Team JR
Wednesday 25 January 2012
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See Burgundy 2010 – a complete guide to our coverage – not just tasting notes but much, much more.

Here is the second of our final four tranches totalling about 2,000 tasting notes on Burgundy's most attractive 2010s. The notes below are grouped by producer, alphabetically by (sur)name, whites before reds and wines roughly ascending in grandeur.

DOMAINE PIERRE DAMOY

Dom Pierre Damoy, Clos Tamisot 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 16.5
Quite dark crimson. Damson fruit. Dry finish. Nice unforced fruit. Pure and dry. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2023
£210 per case of 6 ib Flint
Dom Pierre Damoy, Grand Cru 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin 16
Sweet and candified and a tad too easy and jagged. Not the purest expression. Chewy finish. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2024
£450 per case of 6 ib Flint
Dom Pierre Damoy, Grand Cru 2010 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 17
Deep crimson. Big and deep and a good effort but pretty dry on the end. Needs a bit more juice in the middle. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2026
£545 per case of 6 ib Flint

DOMAINE DANIEL DAMPT – MAISON DAMPT

Maison Dampt, Les Clos 2010 Chablis Grand Cru 17
This is the négoce label used by Jean Defaix and Daniel Dampt (who is Jean Defaix's son-in-law).
Unlike the Dom Jean Defaix wines, this one is oaked. Much more savoury. Not more concentrated than the Lys but definitely more complex. This has a sweet/sour character that needs time but the depth and length are impressive – it's just less winning right now than Les Lys. (JH)
Drink 2015 – 2023
£360 per case ib Bibendum
Dom Daniel Dampt 2010 Chablis 16
Dusty lemon, classic Chablis – lightly chalky texture. Good depth, lively and long. GV (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£97.04 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Dom Daniel Dampt, Les Lys Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 17
More concentration than the straight Chablis, a little more salty. Ripe and yet very crisp on the palate. Full in the mouth and long. Concentrated (low yields) and very impressive for the price. 75% malo completed and 3 g/l RS, hence that roundness. Très spécial, M Dampt says. GV (JH)
Drink 2014 – 2020
£118 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Dom Daniel Dampt, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 16.5
This too is rich and a touch honeyed. More like a Beaune white than a Chablis in its density. (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£118 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT

Dom Vincent Dampt, Vaillons Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 16.5
Absolutely archetypal apples and cream, soft and rounded on the palate, light weight but with texture giving dimension. (RH)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£155 per case ib Corney & Barrow
Dom Vincent Dampt, Les Lys Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 16.5 +
Oldest vines, giving the lowest yields of his premiers crus. You can taste the concentration – layers of slate and citrus. Chalky mouthfeel, Tight, refreshing, gastronomic. (RH)
Drink 2013 – 2019
£165 per case ib Corney & Barrow
Dom Vincent Dampt, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 16.5
Tighter and more restrained in style, more citric than the other Dampt premiers crus. Delicate, crystalline. (RH)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£170 per case ib Corney & Barrow
Dom Vincent Dampt, Bougros 2010 Chablis Grand Cru 17
Oaked. Retains the Chablis shimmer beneath its voluptuous layers of spice and cream. Very successful, finely judged example. Great purity of fruit and warmth on the length. (RH)
Drink 2014 – 2020
£300 per case ib Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE VINCENT DANCER

Dom Vincent Dancer 2010 Bourgogne 15.5
Fine and silky and refined though by no means concentrated! GV (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2016
£125 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Dom Vincent Dancer 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 16.5
Some honey on the nose. Racy and with real structure. Great stuff! GV (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£245 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Dom Vincent Dancer, La Romanée Premier Cru 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 17
A bit more concentrated than the village wine. Silky and dense and beautifully polished. Very well done. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2020
£435 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Dom Vincent Dancer 2010 Bourgogne 15
Cool nose. A bit austere. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2018
£100 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Dom Vincent Dancer, Les Pézerolles Premier Cru 2010 Pommard 15.5
Rather stewed fruit on the nose. Can’t really see enough freshness here. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2020
£380 per case ib Justerini & Brooks

DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT

Dom Henri Darnat, Clos du Domaine 2010 Meursault 17
Mineral and slaty. Almost wincing acidity, but has the weight of fruit to handle it. Fine, linear, austere but not unapproachable. (RH)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£250 per case ib Corney & Barrow
Dom Henri Darnat, Les Cras Clos Richemont Premier Cru 2010 Meursault 17 +
Monopole. Smoke, powerful chalky texture, more concentration than the Clos du Domaine. Intense. Tight. Not giving much away. (RH)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£365 per case ib Corney & Barrow
Dom Henri Darnat, Les Champs Gains Premier Cru 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 17
Worlds apart from his Meursaults – much bigger on the nose, perhaps counter-intuitively. Has saline acidity and brisk, green citrus fruit, but is definitely more generous. (RH)
Drink 2012 – 2018
£410 per case ib Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE DARVIOT-PERRIN

Dom Darviot-Perrin 2010 Bourgogne 16.5
Cool. Clean, very revitalising. Crystal clear in fact. Lovely light touch. Refined. QGV (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2016
£72 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Les Tessons 2010 Meursault 17
Seems lean after the Rijckaert wines, initially at least. Tight and chalky, dry and palate-awakening. Oak comes through on the finish then a lemon purity pulls on to a lingering aftertaste. (JH)
Drink 2014 – 2020
£390 per case ib Clarion
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Clos de la Velle 2010 Meursault 16.5
Racy and lively and just soars on the palate. Lots of acidity but good fruit concentration too. So long. Well done! (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£144 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley, £150 per case of 6 ib Armit
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Genevrières Premier Cru 2010 Meursault 16.5
Racy and quite delicate. Good depths too. Quite fine and long. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2019
£264 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Perrières Premier Cru 2010 Meursault 17
Lively, penetrating citrus and mineral. Intense, almost a touch sour (grapefruit pith?) on the palate. Taut, not especially rich but persistent with a savoury clean finish. (JH)
Drink 2015 – 2020
£550 per case ib Clarion
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Perrières Premier Cru 2010 Meursault 17
High toned but good concentration. One of the tarter Perrières. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2024
£295 per case of 6 ib Armit
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Blanchot-Dessus Premier Cru 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 17.5 ?
Very racy indeed – so much so it is almost fizzing! Difficult to assess at this stage but very long so probably fine. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2026
£360 per case of 6 ib Armit
Dom Darviot-Perrin 2010 Bourgogne 15.5
Firm light raspberry red. Very charming floral nose without any ersatz sweetness. Utter lightness of touch. Finishes with just a little kick but very expressive of 2010 Côte de Beaune. GV (JR) 12%
Drink 2012 – 2015
£72 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Les Crays 2010 Monthelie 16.5
Delicate dark fruit. Silky sweet and more red-fruited in the palate. Really very silky and refined with a return to the darker savoury fruit on the finish. (JH)
Drink 2014 – 2020
£168 per case ib Clarion
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Les Blanches 2010 Volnay 16.5
Dark and medium deep crimson. Fresh and peppery on the nose. Lightish in the middle, fine tannins and dryish finish. On the slender side but persistent. (JH)
Drink 2015 – 2021
£273 per case ib Clarion
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Les Blanches 2010 Volnay 16
Pale crimson. Rather muted nose. But lovely fresh fruit on the palate. Good integrity even if quite light. Racy. True. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£99 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Dom Darviot-Perrin, Les Bondues Premier Cru 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 16
Juicy and fresh and very lively in a cherry cough-drop idiom. Frank but a tiny bit light. Fades a bit on the finish. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2029
£130 per case of 6 ib Armit

DOMAINE DEBRAY

Dom Debray 2010 St-Romain 15
Light nose. Simple pear fruit and less pronounced acidity than one might expect for this combination of vintage and appellation. Nothing wrong with this but nothing very exciting either. (JR) 13%
Drink 2012 – 2014
Dom Debray 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses 16
Good precision on the nose. And reasonable ripeness and intensity. Flirtatious and lively. Satisfying for the short to medium term.  (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
Dom Debray, Les Murgers 2010 Meursault 15.5
Pale gold. Light nose. Solid stuff and a bit stolid to boot. This would disappoint no one but is not exactly exciting. Not fat though. Fine, lightly bitter citrus-peel character. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Dom Debray, Premier Cru 2010 Volnay 15.5
Pale, which is fine, but really quite thin and dull, which is not. (JR) 13%
Drink 2012 – 2014
Dom Debray, Les Valozières Premier Cru 2010 Aloxe-Corton 16
Pale raspberry red.  Pure, piercing fruit. Light but very honest with an attractive sweetness on the end. Far from complex but very pleasing. A good introduction to the charms of light red burgundy.  (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Dom Debray, Les Chaponnières Premier Cru 2010 Pommard 16
Lightly earthy nose with some crunchy fruit and grainy texture. A little chewy on the finish but overall quite light for a Pommard. Sinewy and quite sleek. Wait a a while, but not too long, for this. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018

DOMAINE BERNARD DEFAIX

Dom Bernard Defaix, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 15.5
Rather muted nose. Dampened aromas and flavour. Stolid. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2017
£128 per case ib Flint

DOMAINE JEAN DEFAIX

Dom Jean Defaix 2010 Chablis 16.5
Dusty but so alive. Has that slight chalky texture of classic Chablis but also very good length for a straight Chablis. GV (JH)
Drink 2012 – 2016
£90 per case ib Bibendum
Dom Jean Defaix, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 16.5
Harvested after the rain therefore softer. Gentle, very fluid but retains a fine minerality and length and a tingly aftertaste – spicy but in terms of texture rather than flavour. (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2017
£160 per case ib Bibendum
Dom Jean Defaix, Les Lys Premier Cru 2010 Chablis 17
Harvested before the rain, more concentrated. Very different on the nose from the Côte de Lechet – much more salty but also a note of apricots. Lovely purity and concentration allied with ripeness and richness of texture in a Chablis context. Delicious and VGV. (JH)
Drink 2014 – 2020
£160 per case ib Bibendum

DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE DENIZOT

Dom des Moirots – Christophe Denizot, Le Vieux Château Premier Cru 2010 Montagny 15

Côte d’Or savour here. Just a tad bland. (JR)

Drink 2012 – 2015
£54 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Dom des Moirots – Christophe Denizot 2010 Givry 14

Pale ruby. A bit edgy and vegy on the nose. Light and tart. Not a primeur candidate. Astringent. (JR)

Drink 2013 – 2015
£51 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley

JEAN-YVES DEVEVEY – DOMAINE JEAN-YVES DEVEVEY

Jean-Yves Devevey 2010 Rully 15
Very light nose. Marked acidity but pretty ungenerous. Lacks flesh. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2015
£117 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
Jean-Yves Devevey, Les Macherelles Premier Cru 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 15.5

Light and racy and ticks the boxes but it’s not thrilling. Except for introducing me to a premier cru of which I was previously ignorant. Lots of astringency. (JR)

Drink 2014 – 2017
£348 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
Jean-Yves Devevey, Les Vireuils 2010 Meursault 16

Tight and taut. Needs to unwind a bit but all the elements are there. A little severe at the moment. Not a bad buy. (JR)

Drink 2014 – 2017
£240 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd

DOMAINE DE LA DOUAIX

Dom de la Douaix, Clos des Fervelots 2010 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 16
There’s a slightly rude, raw element to this, but at least it has masses of (very slightly dry) fruit. Very sincere. GV (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£120 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom de la Douaix, Terres Nobles 2010 Côte de Nuits-Villages 15.5
Very deep crimson. Very raw, almost rhubarby nose. Sweet fruit. Grainy texture. Just a tad unsubtle. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£147 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom de la Douaix, Vieilles Vignes 2010 Côte de Nuits-Villages 16
Milder and more malty than the Terres Nobles bottling. Drying finish. But very clean, crystalline fruit. Slightly bitter damson fruit. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2019
£177 per case ib Lea & Sandeman

JEAN-PAUL ET...