Burgundy 2021 – S–Z

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2021, see our guide. Above, Olivier (left), Nathalie and Jean-Paul Tollot of Domaine Tollot-Beaut, photographed by Jon Wyand.

Wednesday, 8 February 2023
Olivier, Nathalie and Jean-Paul Tollot

The 66 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order within groups as you prefer using the menu below.

Domaine Saumaize-Michelin (Vergisson)

Utterly distinctive in those lovely ripe aromas of citrus and clementine. Deep, generous in fruit, balanced by the high acid. Full-flavoured, rarely disappoints. Intense rather than elegant at this stage. GV (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2030
£96.50 per case of 6 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Full bottle 1,265 g. From a 0.7-ha, south-facing parcel at 350 m on Trias clay below the Roche de Vergisson – so, well positioned!
Deep glistening gold. Rich nose with an underlying tension of green-fruit flavours. Impeccably made. Obviously not a Côte d’Or white, but is that so awful nowadays? Certainly not fat. Real excitement and tension here. And persistence. GV (JR)

13.5%
Drink 2024 – 2034
£243 per case of 12 ib Stone Vine & Sun

Spicier and more leesy than the St-Véran, so the ripeness of fruit is less immediately obvious, but still there. A little more stony/mineral too. There's more tension here, more refinement, wonderful freshness and very good length with a light spice note at the end. (JH)

Drink 2025 – 2035
£181.50 per case of 6 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Domaine Seguin-Manuel (Beaune)

Mid ruby. Like the Beaune Bressandes, it seems to lack some freshness. Tannins are quite grippy too. Is the sample fresh? (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2029
£355 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Lightish crimson. Scented yet delicate aroma of wild red fruits. Pretty light on the palate but the tannins are handled gently, not to overwhelm the fruit. Subtle with a sour-fresh finish. Not really premier-cru intensity. (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2028
£355 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Light ruby – looking a little older than 2021, but smells fresh and sweet. Tastes quite sweet too, and a little leathery. A bit lean overall but fruit and structure are balanced, as the tannins are restrained. (JH)

Drink 2025 – 2030
£408 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Lightish ruby. Sweet and slightly stewed on the nose – cooked not fresh strawberries. Is the sample fresh? In the context of this vintage, this really lacks some freshness. The tannins are smooth and appropriate, but it seems a bit tired? Hard to tell how it will age. (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2029
£445 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet (Maligny)

Screwcap. A light stone-dust layer, then delicate citrus underneath. Mealy/lees texture helps to balance the high acidity and adds a note of fresh pears. A little austere unless you are an acid lover. (JH)

Drink 2023 – 2026
£143 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Screwcap. More herbal than citrus but also a strong stony/mineral character. Not very fruity at first. A marked lees flavour and texture on the palate – perhaps showing more because the fruit character is not very intense. But it is balanced in a rather lean style. Long, leesy finish. (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2028
£163 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Smells so much richer than the straight Chablis. Still a very marked lees aroma (creamy/mealy) but the balance with the fruit is better here. Green fruits, slightly chewy texture. Intense, dry and long. (JH)

Drink 2024 – 2030
£233 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Domaine Sérafin (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Nose is not the purest. A bit taut and demanding for a wine from this appellation. (JR)

Drink 2025 – 2030
£175 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Cask sample. Notably pale garnet. Easy and plush but not quite fresh enough. Oak in the picture. Not appetising. (JR)

Drink 2025 – 2029
£275 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Cask sample. Crimson. Sweet and chewy at present. Maybe too much extraction? Dry finish. (JR)

Drink 2026 – 2034
£345 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut (Chambolle-Musigny)

see Burgundy 2021s...