Bye bye, Ch Magdelaine

Bordeaux Kremlinologists will have been studying the official new St-Émilion classification that we published last night. Many will be disappointed that the demotions so bravely announced in the 2006 classification and appealed against seem to have been swept under the carpet.

Instead, there has been a small wave of promotions, notably but not exclusively of Chx Pavie and Angélus to category A status.

As I pointed out last night, one very obvious omission from the list is Ch Magdelaine, formerly one of relatively few Premiers Grands Crus Classés. I can now reveal why. The Moueix family who owns this prestigious...