Chile runs wild

Until November last year, my most recent encounters with Chilean wine had left me, to paraphrase Wodehouse, 'if not actually underwhelmed, then far from being whelmed'. 

The problem seems to be that all the excitement and innovation that is apparently happening in that country's winemaking scene too rarely reaches the nose of the beholder. In Chilean medal winners, I bemoaned the identikit, unimaginative winemaking that enfeebles many of the major brands – although to be fair, there are some notable exceptions, such as my recent wine...