How well does white burgundy age?

Burgundy specialist Sarah Marsh continued her series of tastings of nine-year-old white burgundies from top addresses last week. With the co-operation of some of Burgundy's best producers, she organises these retrospectives (reds too) with the aim of generating impressions of mature burgundy to complement all those tasting notes generated by the embryonic wines we review every January. 

The wines, shown at a tasting at Berry Bros & Rudd, varied from village to grand cru and, as you might expect, were at very different, if not always predictable, stages of evolution. Most but...