Lécaillon's sparkling Roederer Cristals

There was one week last month when I attended three different champagne tastings at the London wine-minded club 67 Pall Mall, co-hosting two of them, the Dom Pérignon vertical described yesterday and the English sparkling wine v champagne blind tasting on which I will report tomorrow. 

On the Monday of that week Louis Roederer’s much-admired technical director Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon came to London to present the latest releases in their Vinothèque series of late-released champagnes, a 1995 and 1996 both white and rosé. Since Lécaillon made the trek, Roederer obviously thought it was worth...