Ontario's burgundian ambition

At a tasting in London's Canada House in May, while Jancis concentrated on British Columbia, I focused on the offerings from Ontario, a mere 2,000 miles to the east (plus a few interlopers from Nova Scotia), and decided to taste the Burgundian varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (and a little Gamay too). 

Ontario has been known as a good-quality source of these varieties for some time, led by particular producers who have gained an international reputation. Several of those were present at the tasting, and they continue to...