Rescuing Sicily's ancient grape varieties

In an experimental vineyard in Marsala, 70 ancient Sicilian varieties, most of them previously completely unknown, are being researched. This dispels the myth that Italy’s largest island hasn’t much in the way of indigenous varieties. The vineyard, in the Contrada of Biesina, is part of a project officially called Valorizzazione dei Vitigni Autoctoni Siciliani, or the 'Evaluation of Indigenous Sicilian Grape Varieties', and is one of the most exciting current developments in Sicily. 

The project was started in 2003 when the Assessorato all’Agricoltura della Regione Sicilia, the official...