Seriously rare, ancient madeiras

See inside information for a précis of a quite amazing tasting of old madeiras in Miami on 28 February, 2003. These were my favourite wines, presented in the increasingly sweet order of tasting. None of them, alas, is commercially available. Sorry if this seems like vinous sadism.

1839 Verdelho, Oscar Acciaioly 20

Blackish mahogany. Molasses nose with edge of rancio. Strongly aromatic with a distinct whiff of mint toffee. Extraordinary richness for such an old wine, great plump thing full of fruit with musky, passion-fruit flavours. Both big and subtle. Real vindication of madeira's ageing ability.

1863 Boal...