Tous les neufs – Burgundy 2009

Here's a brief report direct from Burgundy’s heartland, where cellars and vineyards are currently rattling and humming with the sights, sounds and smells of vintage. Most winemakers are smiling broadly at the prospect of the 2009s. In Chablis, the grands and premier crus have now all been picked, and the bunch of Chardonnay, shown here, was looking very healthy in Les Beuignons vineyard on 22 Sep.

Some Chablis AC and Petit Chablis is still to be picked and so far, the quality of the must is being widely lauded. Further south, spirits are just as high. The team at Albert...