What's new, Montalcino?

Today Walter turns his attention to Brunello di Montalcino, with an overview of this year's controversies and an introduction to the 2007 vintage. See here for his tasting notes on Brunello 2007s from this year's Benvenuto Brunello tasting, and see Guide to Walter's Tuscan week for links to all the other articles.

The image shows this year's commemorative plaque, created by the fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo, afixed to the outside wall of Montalcino’s Palazzo Pubblico.

The last stage of the Tuscan tasting marathon is traditionally Montalcino. What also seems to have become a tradition, or at least a recurrent theme, is...