White burgundies – an unexpected pleasure

Just before flying to Chengdu, I took part in a tasting in the cellars of Buckingham Palace as part of my duties on the Royal Household Wine Committee, whose AGM and annual lunch followed the tasting. I have to report, rather surprised, that the line-up of 13 white burgundies submitted to the Committee by approved merchants was one of the best tastings I have ever undertaken in search of wines for the Queen’s cellar. 

As most Purple Pagers know, premature oxidation has been a serious problem for white burgundy for much of this century. But, on the basis of...