Why can't London be more like New York?

OK, London has many advantages over New York but I just couldn't think of anywhere in London able to offer the combination of value and sophistication that we enjoyed yesterday over lunch at the Gotham Bar & Grill (whose $25 three-course lunch is admittedly one of the city's most famous bargains).

There is nothing whatever about the look of the place to suggest cut prices. The linens, glassware and service were impeccable. We had one heirloom tomato bruschetta with a streak of basil aioli and one creamy bean soup with smoked duck; two main courses of orrechiette pasta with crumbled...