A very Starck champagne

Head of Champagne Louis Roederer Frédéric Rouzeau and winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon came over to London on Monday to introduce us wine media to their new baby, a vintage-dated Brut Nature that will surely be welcomed by any producer of non-dosed champagne as adding value to the entire controversial category.

Rouzaud's co-conspirator in this enterprise, designer Philippe Starck, had been at the launch in Paris, apparently. We had to make do with a short film of him and his views on the new champagne and on balance I think his contribution would...