Aspiring French co-ops

The mood in the light and airy tasting room at the end of September was celebratory. The view, despite the regular downpours, was spectacular so close to the Eiffel Tower and those uniquely Parisian rooftops. Colleagues weary of emails, phone calls and those particularly exhausting Zoom calls were obviously glad to be face to face and promoting their wines to eager tasters, buyers and importers' agents representing 20 countries, and a very few journalists. (The photo above is by Martine Cazin of the UNSCV.)

It's...