Burgundy 2023 – Ca–Cl

Friday 24 January 2025
Jacques Carillon

The third of our alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Matthew took the picture above of Jacques Carillon when tasting his wines at the domaine. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.

These 151 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.

Dom Jacques Cacheux (Vosne-Romanée)

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Ripe, dried red fruits. Not very subtle, the ripe fruits and the tannins not fully meshed. Not sure if this is the wine or the sample, though I know the samples were collected earlier this week. (JH)

Drink 2026 – 2030
£278 per case of 6 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Cask sample. Mid crimson. The fruit smells much fresher here than in the Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins. Definite oak impression, the fruit is dense and firm. Powerfully structured but slightly hard work. Needs time. (JH)

Drink 2028 – 2038
£788 per case of 6 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Dom René Cacheux (Vosne-Romanée)

Cassis flavours – unusual! Sweet and emphatic. Quite a bit of tannin. Not graceful but definitely trying hard. (JR)

13%
Drink 2028 – 2035
£38 RRP imported by Vindependents

Rich and lively. A spine of finesse and lots of fruit. (JR)

13%
Drink 2030 – 2046
£91.50 RRP imported by Vindependents

Rich and sweet. With lots of follow-through. And a fair whack of tannin, though not finesse. (JR)

13%
Drink 2032 – 2045
£91.50 RRP imported by Vindependents

Juicy and rich. Solid attempt but I wonder whether one wants to spend this amount on a producer that’s not top drawer? Tannins to the fore! (JR)

13.5%
Drink 2033 – 2050
£147.50 RRP imported by Vindependents

Now this has real class! Freshness as well as sweet fruit and structure, too. Long. Yes! (JR)

13.5%
Drink 2033 – 2050
£147.50 RRP imported by Vindependents

Domaine François Carillon (Puligny-Montrachet)

From fruit grown in Montagnac, near Nîmes, vinified at the domaine in Puligny-Montrachet.
Bright, limey aroma with a hint of tilleul. Rounded and creamy on the palate, with a very slight leesy grip adding to the length. GV (JH)

13.5%
Drink 2025 – 2028
£65 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow

Not as obviously fruity on the nose as La Bergerie and a little more linear. Slightly more persistent. GV (JH)

13%
Drink 2026 – 2028
£145 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow

Stony purity tops the fruit here, at least in the aroma. But the texture is rich and creamy. Straightforward, present and correct. (JH)

13%
Drink 2026 – 2030
£425 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow

More obviously oaky on the nose compared with the village Puligny. Spicy and cedary citrus. Firm, chewy. Not a powerhouse but long and precise, with a nicely lees-enriched finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink 2026 – 2030
£650 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow
...