Cal-Ital's time has come

Thirty years ago, the descriptor ‘Cal-Ital’ could often trigger a shudder of revulsion for an informed buyer of American wine. Many were scarred by inexpensive, high-volume efforts by the state’s largest wine producers eager to discover the next big thing. The Cal-Ital movement died something of a merciful death in the early 2000s, leaving behind little trace save for a moderate American affinity for Pinot Grigio that supports around 15,000 acres (6,000...