A century of Vieux Château Certan

On the 80th anniversary of D-Day earlier this month, my thoughts turned to the First, not the Second, World War. I was being driven through the sunny Flanders countryside, the verges red with poppies, to a centennial wine tasting in the little village of Etikhove.

Along with nine other wine writers from the UK, France and Italy, I’d been invited by Jacques Thienpont and his wife Fiona Morrison MW to taste the...