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Great Greek wines from small wineries

Julia Harding
Julia Harding MW
Wednesday 5 April 2023
Kostas Provatas and Julia

Julia separates the crabs from the seafarers at a two-day marathon in Athens showcasing Greece’s small, family-owned winegrowers. Pictured with her here is her 'brilliant runner' Kostas Provatas.

The official English name of this Greek producers’ association is Artisanal Wineries of Greece (AWG) but the translation of the original Greek name – Σύνδεσμος Μικρών Οινοποιών Ελλάδος (ΣΜΟΕ) – is actually Small Wineries of Greece and this is definitely more accurate.

As the association’s president Thanos Dougos confirmed when I met him at the tasting in Athens, the main criterion for membership is size: producers must make fewer...