Lee's decade at Quo Vadis

Many different qualities are required of successful modern chefs. They must be able to cook extremely well; they must be able to inspire a brigade; they should ideally have a busy social-media presence; they should be able to write well, to spread their restaurant’s name through books and newspaper columns; they should be able to deliver all this with a sense of humour; and, perhaps most challengingly of all, they should be able to pull all these off while maintaining the respect of their peers.

Leading examples of such chefs include Sally Clarke from Clarke’s...