Nebbiolo Prima – Barbaresco 2012

Tasting some 479 embryonic Nebbiolos (see Nebbiolo Prima – the guide) during this year’s en primeur of Roero, Barbaresco and Barolo in Alba during May was a privilege as well as sheer folly. I am now used to the fact that this tasting marathon, called Nebbiolo Prima, seems to increase in size with every new edition and I certainly wasn't disappointed this year. It is still the cheapest vehicle for producers, with their number growing exponentially each year, to get their wines in front of international wine media.

But every year too I have growing doubts about Nebbiolo Prima’s...