Penfolds Grange 2003 and other icons

This morning at the Penfolds cellar door at Magill outside Adelaide Australians were able to buy the just-released latest representatives of Penfolds’  ‘luxury and icon range’ outside Adelaide. I’ve been lucky enough to taste these over the last couple of days and am delighted to share my (and winemaker Peter Gago’s) impressions of them below.

 

It’s an article of faith at Penfolds that these wines never change. Grange is so important to the reputation of the company, and of Australian wine generally, that I have never managed to get anyone working for Penfolds to admit that things might have...