To accompany my recent Provençal vision of the future article, here follows a collection of tasting notes on that region's major output, rosé.
The most notable wine, however, is also the odd one out: a first ever (I think) taste of Ch d'Esclan's inaugural white wine from Sasha Lichine and consultant Patrick Léon (ex Mouton), an oak-aged Rolle, the local synonym for Vermentino. It shares all the craft and quality of their famed rosés, on which Jancis reported in
Pink wine can be fine wine.
The notes are presented in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name.
WHITE
To be released 2011. Pineapples, vanilla, loads of opulence and tropical fruit. Fabulous: such vivacity and poise, great texture, good dose of oak lending complexity. Lengthy, balanced, reminiscent of the leaner styles of white Bordeaux, perhaps. (RH)
Drink
2011
–
2012
ROSÉ
Peach colour, charming smoke aromas with a red fruit and a light, slightly bitter and salty finish. A few flashes of green leaf, nice texture, good length. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
£12 Wine Society, Marc Fine Wines
Quite straightforward, ripe strawberry fruit, stones and minerals, dry and floury. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
£8.99 Laithwaites
Light, simple red fruits, strawberry and cherry. Primary, straightforward, and a bit sharp and warm on the finish. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
Oranges, some citrus, pale and gentle but with a good, delicate persistence. (RH)
12%
Drink
2010
£13.99 Oddbins
Iodine, medicinal, unusual metallic character. Esoteric, in a slightly arbitrary, almost irritating sort of way. Not my style. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
£10.50 Wine Society, Tanners
Red cherries, light body, refreshing and balanced. Very subtle, clean and rounded. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
£13 Enotria
Gentle flavours but impressive persistence, delicate but confident. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
Organic. 50% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah. Raspberry juice, a bit of rose petal, a rosehip bitterness to finish. A mite crude. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Citrus, floral, smooth and creamy with appealing texture and a fresh finish. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£10.25 Vintage Roots
Pure cherry, some bitter nut character, delicate but round, great mouthfeel. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Focused red fruit and elegant stone aromas. Dry, textured and good persistence of flavour throughout, with generous ripeness whilst retaining lightness of touch. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£10.95 Raffles Fine Wines
Fine strawberry flavour, full concentration, viscous and almost a little too thick on the back palate. Nonetheless, pretty and well balanced. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
£12.50 Harrods, Whole Foods
Candied fruits, strawberry, simple, dry but ripe. Fresh, easygoing, affable and quaffable. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
6,000 bottles. Genuine complexity: raspberry, cherry plus a nettle and herby character. No obvious oak influence, stones, fine balance and very gentle persistence. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2012
Fresh, light raspberries on the nose with rather more force and impact on the palate. Creamy texture, round and plump without heaviness. Dry, mineral character on the length. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2011
Apples, strawberry candy, a bit of oxidative character creeping in, but fresh for the most part. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
Gentle, red fruits, subtle. Some bitter citrus character gives length on the finish. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Cabernet and Syrah. Ripe strawberries, tickly acidity, creamy mouthfeel and crisp, brief finish. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Apricot and peach, creamy smooth character on the mid-palate, very succulent and juicy. Fine grainy texture. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Saignée method. Some bronzing to the colour. Plenty of wood on the nose, creamy and vanilla-scented, long oak aftertaste and rich red fruits. Big, hearty, powerful, foursquare. (RH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2011
Ripe, cherry candy, lots of concentration and a syrupy tone. Bright, fresh acid on the finish cleanses the palate. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
Elegant rose floral character, pretty rich and lengthy, with a slight austerity from prominent acid structure. (RH)
12%
Drink
2010
Subtle, nuanced red fruits with a fresh floral tone. Ripe, boiled sweets, full and concentrated. A big style saved from clumsiness by balanced acid. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
£12.99 Taurus Wines, Caviste, Harrods, l'Art du Vin
Subtle, closed, elegant mineral scent with a creamy character on the mid palate. Rather slight in the final analysis. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
Oranges, citrus, stones, slightly leafy bitterness. Dry, basic, pleasant and easy-drinking. (RH)
12.5%
Drink
2010
Dry, light, delicate, a little non-committal, flavour-wise. Terribly faint. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
£13
Vanilla, cream, light red fruits, a bit of creamy citrus. Definite oak character on the nose, though very subtle on the palate, adding a welcome extra dimension, fleshing out the palate and providing complexity without dominating. (RH)
13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
£20 Champagne et Chateaux
