St Peter brings St Henri (and Grange) to St James

The St James's members' club for wine lovers, 67 Pall Mall, is like the sixth-form common room of the wine trade. So when Head Boy Ronan Sayburn MS recently spotted me there catching up on my homework during a free period, he invited me to join him and his staff in a quick tasting with a visiting winemaker. 'Peter Gago's popped in', he said, 'and he's brought four vintages of St Henri. And Grange.'

An audience with Saint Peter is never one to turn down. As Penfolds' Chief Winemaker since 2002, he is perfectly placed to give insights into...