The Penfolds Collection 2014

As the chief executive considers yet another company restructure in the wake of abandoned American takeover offers for Australia's biggest wine company, Treasury Wine Estates is doing its best to maximise the impact of the now-amalgamated single annual release of the jewels in the Penfolds crown.

I had a peek into the jewel box with double award-winning chief winemaker Peter Gago in London in early September. The Australian wine media were allowed a look a couple of weeks later, and today we are all allowed to describe what we saw. The wines themselves go on release on 16 October, two...