The beards of Baden

Isn't it great to have stereotypes knocked to smithereens? So it was at the Badischer Landweinmarkt in the far south-west corner of Germany last month, a wine fair that had nothing to do with efficient, Teutonic German stereotypes and instead looked more like a natural wine fair in Hoxton or Brooklyn. Luxuriant beards and men in hats proliferated.

It was held just before the VDP's annual Mainzer Weinbörse showing of the latest vintage by Germany's most famous wine producers, on which Michael and I will be...