30 year-old mountain whites

'Wine can be made everywhere, but great wine can only be made in select places', started Bruno Besa of Astrum Wine Cellars, as he introduced Cantina Terlano at a five-decade vertical tasting late last year. This Alto Adige co-operative winery, in operation since 1893, not only produces great white wines, but ones of unexpectedly impressive ageing potential. Nestled at the foot of the mountains, the terroir is rich with volcanic minerals such as quartz. Sandy, acidic top-soils result in clean, mineral-rich wines with an ageing potential averaging 20-30 years.

Cantina Terlano's sales director Klaus Gasser led us through the tasting...