Anyone for Hondarrabi Zuri?

Autochthonous is such a lovely word, full of misty promise; more enticing than indigenous; more politically correct than native. When Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are such common, though potentially delicious, currency, it’s refreshing to taste still whites made from Airén, Albariño, Cayetana Blanca, Godello, Hondarrabi Beltza, Hondarrabi Zuri, Macabeo, Malvasia, Moscatel, Montuá, Muscat Frontignac, Palomino, Pansà Blanca, Pardina, Parellada, Prensal Blanc, Subirat Parent, Treixadura, Trepat, Verdejo, Verdil, Viura and Xarel-lo.

(Also very helpful ammunition for my emergency getting-to-sleep routine of trying to think of a grape variety beginning with each letter of the alphabet – works a treat and I’m...