Barolo 2014 – not light but lithe

After tasting the 60 Barolo 2014s described below, I have come to the conclusion that we all – wine producers, wine professionals and wine lovers alike – will have to learn to look at vintages in a different way. 

‘Bad’ and ‘good’ are simply not helpful and often not correct any more. We appreciate fine wine because it reflects vintages, in exactly the way that the controversial 2014 in Barolo does. Some preconceived ideas about what Barolo stylistically must be may be a creation of the recent past, in which enormously concentrated, rich wines were recognised as great, but this...