Bordeaux 2013 – St-Émilion and satellites
Tuesday 22 April 2014
For a list of all our articles, see Bordeaux 2013 – a guide to our coverage.
As might be expected for a large-ish appellation in a difficult vintage, there is a lot of inconsistency among the 2013s of St-Émilion. Finding the gems therefore requires particular care, and fans of the right bank might find it easier to default to Pomerol, which was generally much more memorable than its neighbour.
The tasting notes are listed in alphabetical order.
Sweet fruit but light and brief. Entirely balanced and easy to drink, just limited in scope. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2019
Pretty nondescript – but this is the third wine in a difficult vintage, so no surprises there. Pretty tough going. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2018
75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Violet perfume and an understated but pleasant plummy fruit. Finishes slightly dilute. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2021
62% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc. Rich, fruitcake aromas. Plush and powerful. Tannins are rounded on the palate – drinkable but not quite ready. Impressive concentration and purity without being forceful. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Reductive on the nose, but sweet-fruited too. Finely feathered tannins, very pure fruit – super delicacy without dilution. Expertly done, and with great depth. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2033
Ch Ausone 2013 St-Émilion
17.5 +
Deep blackcurrant fruit, supple tannins on the palate that grip the finish. A smidgen more concentration than their Chapelle, but it doesn’t scale the heights that you might hope for. That’s not to say it isn’t good – it is very delicious – but the quality is constrained by the vintage. (RH)
Drink
2019
–
2033
Attractively indulgent and rich on the nose, really perfumed and floral. There’s a significant oak influence, but it sits nicely with the plump fruit and floral character. Very succulent and appealing – generous, balanced, and very typical. Certainly doesn’t show any symptoms of an ailing vintage. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2027
Light palate with a vegetal underripeness beneath the fruit. Simple, light, not unattractive but not wholly expressive either. Seems a little warm on the finish too. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2023
Cooked, overripe fruit. Light body, chewy tannins. Not the prettiest example. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2018
Juicy black fruit, smoke and charred meat. Very tannic afterglow. Plenty of concentration, and nice initial hints at some floral, spicy perfume. Unassuming at first, but this might well be a sleeping beauty. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
100% Merlot. Plush, sweet character on the nose. Very modern and flashy, with loads of fruit concentration. Rounded, soft tannins. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2029
Rather sweet oak, very tough tannins. Impenetrable, but without much fruit generosity to back up. (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2026
Tight fruit, clove and cedar, and rather punchy tannins that make the palate a bit skew-whiff. Light body, moderate finish. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2023
Cherry and plum, luxurious violet and pepper scent. Attractive layering of flavour and high tannins that don’t seem too ambitious given the good concentration on the mid palate. Good length too. Has a lovely sense of traditional structure with generous, sweet fruit and plenty of development to come. (RH)
Drink
2019
–
2026
Quite an attractive malty sort of character here, and milk chocolate too. Juicy black fruit, medium tannins, light body. Short finish and not hugely complex – but the fruit flavours are all ripe, and there is good balance. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2020
Black cherry, violet, a light herbal character. Quite dense and firm, but not austere. Very attractive perfume. No impression of a ‘bad’ vintage here, just a lighter style with less cellaring potential. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2023
Rich and luxurious scent – lots of perfume and succulent fruit. But also a definite green tinge. Light on the palate, with a sour, bitter element. Tannins are under control, though certainly on the rough side. It’s a shame – the scent is charming, but the palate is seemingly suffering from lack of ripeness. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2019
52% Cabernet Franc, 48% Merlot. Very compact nose – much less expressive than the Petit Cheval. Black fruit, no greenness, and a hint of bitter chocolate. Good persistence and balance – this has been well made. Rounded, soft, approachable and with a smoky character just emerging. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2023
Sweet, fruitcake aromas and vanilla oak in abundance. Firm tannins on the palate, a bit of floral perfume and pepper. Rather tough at present, and may not quite have the stuffing to outlast the structure. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Really constrained nose, but better liveliness on the palate, with juicy red fruit and decent tannin. Ripe but understated and short. Most likely the best possible result given the conditions. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2019
Ripe, modern and succulent on the nose – generous, fully formed black fruit. Very tannic on the palate, and with that inescapable lightness of the vintage. The tannins aren't harsh, however – they are firm but rounded. Modest length. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2020
Understated black fruit. A slight herbal hint, with firm but clay-textured tannins. There's a good amount of concentration on the mid palate, although the body is (understandably) light. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2019
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Earthy nose, dry fruit. Pretty light and tart on the palate. Skinny. Lacks the lusciousness that Pomerol tended to achieve in this vintage. (RH)
13%
Drink
2016
–
2020
Subtle but insistent floral perfume. Clove and oak spice on the palate. Chewy tannins – this is one of the few right bank 2013s that really needs age to soften the structure. Slightly mousy finish. I’m not convinced this is destined for greatness. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2023
Bucket loads of black fruit and a smoky reductive hint that is entirely en vogue for Burgundy but most unusual for Bordeaux. I like it! It lends a fresh, sparky complexity. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2027
Floral and expressive. Sweet milk chocolate, generous oak, a bit of coffee. Squishy tannins, good balance – a successful St-Émilion. The perfume really helps give it some complexity. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2024
Rich, slightly medicinal nose with very ripe, almost jammy fruit. Plenty of oak on top. Incongruously potent for the 2013 par. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2022
Lots of flashy new oak giving a sweet spiciness on the nose. Pretty light black-fruit character – this could do with a bit more oomph. Too reliant on wood flavours, for me. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2024
65% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. Milk chocolate, light tannins, bitter finish. Doesn’t quite bring it all together – shows the cracks of the vintage. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2020
80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot. Juicy and fresh – a little burnt-meat character and pencil shavings on the finish. Pretty compact and austere – good stuff, worth ageing. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Very fruitcake-style nose – baked, jammy. Not overdone though – just very modern and sweet. The finish is dry and balanced, though there is not much substance on the palate. A little bit of smoky character adds interest. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2024
Well-formed blackcurrant fruit, slight spiciness – there’s some nice oak here. The tannins protrude from the structure though, in a way that interferes with the drinkability. (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2026
Juicy black cherry, a nice bit of liquorice, and then very furry tannins that don’t really belong in this structure. Peppery spice to finish. Will these tannins ever fully resolve? (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2026
Quite reductive on the nose, but there is very pure red fruit underneath. Quite light and lithe – very drinkable tannins. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2026
Gorgeous fruit character here – surprisingly developed , fleshy and pure. Lovely coffee scent too. Fine tannic dusting on the finish and a long, impressive finish. Again, it has the signature lightness of 2013, but that needn’t always be a bad thing. The balance is good here, and the flavours are very charming. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2028
Tight nose. Syrupy black fruit on the palate. Dry, fine tannins. Bright acid. Good claret structure, and the fruit is impressive too. Should age pretty well. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2024
Sweet black fruit – ripe, convincing. Well made and fragrant. Another good example of the right bank doing well in 2013. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2026
Blackcurrant fruit but not a whole lot else. Quite firm and furry on the palate. Good fruit definition – no greenness. Basic, enjoyable, simple. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2022
92% Merlot. 8% Cabernet Franc. Sweet oak character, dark black fruit and quite bit of chewy extraction. Finishes with an almost sour blackcurrant character. Rather tart – has the fruit power to mature and soften though, so worth keeping a little. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
A slightly cooked, currant edge to the nose here. Very high tannic grip. Lots of that damp sawdust character that plagues ‘natural’ wines on the finish. I’d be suspicious of this one. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2020
Ch Larmande 2013 St-Émilion
16.5 +
Pure red fruit that is almost more like New World Pinot Noir than right bank Bordeaux! Lovely ripeness, even though there is a herbal character too. Higher tannins that anticipated on the finish. Finishes very chewy, in fact. Has the fruit purity to last, though, so would be worth ageing. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Herbal notes, but good blackcurrant fruit too. Dark chocolate, sweet oak and firm tannins. Leaves a slightly confected impression with a lot of clove oil on the finish. Perfectly respectable, though basic. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2018
Blackcurrant and spice. Dominant oak. Furry tannins – not exactly aggressive, but prominent. Bitter, juniper character on the length. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2022
Plump, bright and floral. Lots packed in here, surrounded by pleasant grainy tannin. Moderate length but super purity and good ageing potential for the medium term. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Bright black fruit, lots of concentration on the palate. Intense but not overbearing. Really tame tannins. Attractive liquorice-and-granite sort of character. Intriguing – has promise. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Succulent cherry fruit. Very high tannic grip, though the texture is very fine. Classic Cabernet structure, with quite a bit of warmth on the finish. Very austere, and it seems that the tannins will outlive the fruit. (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2025
Very closed nose, and the palate is domineered by tannic fuzz. Doesn’t seem to have the fruit concentration of the Cheval Blanc. You wonder whether the structure will ever fully resolve. Bitter and pinched. (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2026
Rich, concentrated fruit. Spicy pork character on the palate, which doesn’t quite seem right in this context. Something a bit like blue cheese as well. Bitter notes to finish, and a fair whack of tannin. Rather too esoteric. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2022
56.5% Merlot, 30.5% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Very ripe blueberry sort of flavour. Light palate, very soft tannins. Pure and well formed, without any greenness. Brief finish. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2019
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Swish smoky oak on the nose, bright fruit and convincing structure – firm tannins, medium body and persistent length. This has sufficient body, which is so often missing from 2013. Modern, ripe, satisfying. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
100% Merlot. Black cherry and sweet spices. Very ripe and easygoing. Good, user-friendly St-Émilion. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2020
Plump, sweet oak on the nose. Attractive, modern but not at all heavy or over-extracted. Good persistence too, though there is a very slightly mousy character on the finish that doesn’t seem in keeping with the rest of the style. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2022
Plush, fragrant and bright. Quite primary, doesn’t seem to follow up with much flavour beyond fruit. Accessible, easy-drinking structure. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2018
Raspberry, red cherry. Light body, medium tannins. Tame, simple – very 2013. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2022
Sweet oak, juicy black fruit, peppery and rich. Has the restraint of 2013, which I think is flattering for this style. Generous without being forceful. Lovely delicate perfume. Ever so fine tannins – stippled texture. (RH)
Drink
2019
–
2033
83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc. Blackcurrant, very bitter and hard-edged. Lacking flesh. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2026
A one-hectare single vineyard. 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 300 cases per year. Sweet, fruity nose. Much softer and juicier than their Ch Laforge. Quite firm on the palate, but nicely balanced. Furry finish. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2027
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. Svelte blackcurrant, violet and chocolate character, very plump and plush. Slight bitterness to finish, but not in an underripe way. Quite warm on the finish. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2023
Lots of sweet spice scent – clearly expensive oak. Dry, savoury palate with a fine-grained tannic texture. Persistent length. Rich without being overwrought. The fruit stands up to the oak and the structure too. Nicely done. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2024
Lovely fruit ripeness and purity. High, fine tannins on the palate which really stick on the finish. A bit of smoky character adding complexity to the length. Stylish. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2028
Creamy, plush oak spice. Drying tannins – very astringent. Good persistence and punchy oak, but the whole is rather cumbersome to drink. Too much extraction? (RH)
Drink
2020
–
2028
Opulent black fruit, impressive oak. Super-fine but super-high tannins. Good acid to refresh, though – and better breadth and depth than the Virginie cuvée. Even so, lacking the complexity of better vintages – understandably. (RH)
Drink
2023
–
2028
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc. Fleshy and generous, plenty of smoky oak character too. Gets the combination of generosity and savoury smokiness too. Well oaked – gives just enough without intruding. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2027
Lots of pure berry fruit, a little sappiness and a rather light body. Good easy-drinking stuff with lovely melting tannins. A little liquorice and leather adds authentic Bordeaux character. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2020
Juicy and bright fruit profile. Plum, black cherry – really nicely crafted. Good persistence too. The missing link is profound complexity, but there is plenty of easy-drinking enjoyability on offer here anyway. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2022
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