Brunello 2004 – a standout vintage?

As promised in this week's delicious wine of the week, here are my notes to date on the current vintage of Brunello di Montalcino. I tasted almost all 38 of these 2004 Brunellos at Vinitaly in April courtesy of the Consorzio, who have, on top of their stand, a tasting salon to which professionals are given access. Here, you are issued with a list of wines, both Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino, that are available for tasting and, after ticking the relevant boxes, you are served by willing and efficient pourers.

This is a wonderful opportunity, seized on enthusiastically...