Clos des Goisses – a vertical

Charles Philipponnat was in London on Wednesday night for a dinner organised by Bordeaux Index at The Ledbury, wine lovers' home away from home, featuring champagnes grown in his family's exceptional single-vineyard Clos des Goisses. He chose to serve the 10 vintages not in 'boring' chronological order but grouped by style, weight. 'aromatic profile', and according to the dishes thoughtfully contrived by talented Australian chef Brett Graham.

All the wines had been brought from Champagne the previous week and, with the exception of one bottle of 1989, seemed to be in excellent condition. The service was extremely professional yet...