Etna – should it be DOCG?

This is the first of a series of articles by Walter Speller on Sicily, Italian wine's hotspot, that we will be publishing all this week. Etna – a change in the rules, Sicilia DOC? And Brand Nero d'Avola, and Etna's endangered yeasts all look at news and issues swirling round the island, complemented by tasting notes in Sicilia en primeur 2011 and Some Etna classics.

Although Sicily has been in the international spotlight for many years now, and has marketed a large part of its production as the New World equivalent of 'sunshine...