Giodo – elegant Brunello and Nerello

The last one, 2019, was Carlo Ferrini's forty-first vintage. He should be at a relaxed, confident stage in his career. But last month, presenting a vertical of the wines under his own label, Giodo, to a group of wine writers from several different European countries at Hide restaurant in London, he seemed distinctly nervous.

He doesn't speak English, claiming he has been too busy servicing his impressive roster of clients throughout much of...