Krug's daring digits

Olivier, the charming son of Henri, Krug was in London last Thursday to launch the second-ever vintage, 1996, of Krug’s stratospherically priced all-Pinot Noir Clos d’Ambonnay. The 1995 is currently selling, or at least is currently being offered, at £1,625 + VAT a bottle by the likes of Bordeaux Index – which makes the price of Armand de Brignac look rather modest.

Olivier had heard of this new, gold-bottled prestige cuvée from Cattier but has yet to taste it. By coincidence, when I got back from my lunch in the Dorchester Hotel’s Krug Room (where else, my dear?), I found...