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Letter from Paris

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Jancis Robinson
Wednesday 27 October 2004

A special screening of Jonathan Nossiter's documentary film Mondovino followed by a discussion organised by the French wine magazine La Revue du Vin de France was considerably more exciting than a tasting of Pomerols 2001, 2002 and 2003 the day before. No-one walked out of the tasting in a huff but the screening was ripe with off-screen drama.

"Oh no - Michel Rolland and Aimé Guibert have arrived at the same time!" hissed someone in my ear beforehand, referring to the peripatetic Pomerol-based oenologist and his principal detractor in the film (and during the debate), the owner of Mas de...