Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – the proof

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has been making pure, finely delineated and delicious Riesling-inspired white burgundy in Chassagne-Montrachet under his own name since 2001, initially using all bought-in grapes and then, after the 2005 vintage, when his father Marc Colin shared out the family vineyards equally among Pierre-Yves and his three siblings, using the fruit from his own 6 ha and also from bought-in grapes. (See Jancis's profile of Colin-Morey back in 2008.)

However, as he explained to me at a remarkable and enormously pleasurable retrospective tasting of 10 vintages of his Meursault Charmes and Chevalier-Montrachet in London last month, he has always...