Scheurebe in all its glory

Something very strange happened last night. I tasted through an assorted range of mainly Rieslings, including some highly regarded producers thereof, from Germany, Austria, Alsace and Switzerland (yes, Gantenbein of German-speaking Switzerland, admittedly better known for their Pinot Noir). But the wine I took from the tasting table, and hugged for the rest of the evening, was not a Riesling but a humble QbA Scheurebe, the best Scheurebe I think I have ever tasted. Among the host of German crossings, Scheurebe has always enjoyed a fine, possibly the finest, reputation.

Dr Scheu created this grape by crossing a Silvaner with...