Sicily today – a tasting audit

The following tasting notes and observations on about 75 fine wines made at this year's presentation of Sicilian wines en primeur are divided by grape variety, since the island has such a rich complement of indigenous varieties with real personality. See also my notes on Cerasuolo di Vittoria – Sicily's DOCG.

WHITE WINES

GRILLO 
The main ingredient of the fortifited wine Marsala, which, except for the sea of industrial, 'aromatised', cooking versions, might have ceased to exist but for the efforts of a handful of producers led by Marco De Bartoli. Once it was Trapani's most planted vine...